Beginning the airy crux just before the pine tree belay. I'm skeptical this maneuver is "5.6" <br> <br> Photo: Frank Mendez.

2 Comments

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT

Phil Lauffen Innsbruck, AT

I think this didn't feel 5.6 because you're off route. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I remember climbing up about 6 feet to your right and then traversing back left. Apr 23, 2010

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Daniel Joder
Barcelona, Spain

Daniel Joder Barcelona, Spain

There may be a couple of ways of doing this crux section. I knew about the variation slightly right of this that Phil has mentioned, but I ended up doing what you are doing in the picture. It looked intimidating as hell, but you can get in a bomber large stopper before you start up to the bulge and a bomber BD #3 cam mid-way up (#4 was a bit too big). The higher you work your way up the bulge (overhang, dammit!), the better the hands get. Might be "old school 5.6". Another tip: consider combining the first two pitches to the Crow's Nest. To mitigate your second's freak-out factor, just be sure the leader protects well for the second as he/she goes down the ridge after the initial 40' (unprotected) headwall. Our 70m rope worked well for this and a 60m might even do it, but I am not sure. Aug 29, 2017

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