My typical Joshua Tree top-rope anchor
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Matthew Fienup
Apr 14, 2010
My typical Joshua Tree top-rope anchor
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
1) Create a solid, multi-point anchor that is located a comfortable distance back from the top of the cliff. In many cases, available protection is 10-30 feet back from the top of the route.

2) Clip the end of a 10-11mm anchor cord to the multi-point anchor. (If necessary, it is possible to use a klemheist or rappel device on the anchor cord to protect yourself as you approach the edge of the cliff.)

3) Using a "BHK," tie the masterpoint at the desired point on the anchor cord (and at the desired location at the top of the climbing route).

4) Place one more piece of protection near the cliff's edge. Be thoughtful about the location of this piece, as its main function will be to keep the masterpoint in the location that you have selected. Clip the anchor cord to this piece of protection using a clove hitch. The clove hitch will allow you to micro-adjust the position of the masterpoint (shorten the strand of anchor cord to draw the masterpoint closer; lengthen the strand of anchor cord in order to move the masterpoint father from the piece). Apr 14, 2010
Hey, thanks for this little diagram, Matt. Solid TR/top-belay system. I have a question. I know that the AMGA is a big advocate of the BHK for master points. Is there any functional reason to not simply tie a dog-eared figure 8 as your master point in this scenario (except for the figure 8 being more of a pain to untie)? Let me know your thoughts! Feb 17, 2015
There is a single strand of rope that the two "dog ears" share. Thus making them adjustable in length, but also leaving a single strand that if cut, could cause master point failure. According to my AMGA instructor it is o.k. to use this at the master point as long as that strand is not rubbing in anyway. The only reason you would really use it (bunny-ear figure 8) would be if you do not have enough material to tie the BHK, which requires about 3 - 4ft of 10mm rope. Hope this answers your question. Oct 12, 2016

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