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Climbing at Cathedral Rock.<br>
ID 106629831

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Ron Thompson
Dec 15, 2009
Climbing at Cathedral Rock.
Ron Thompson
Idlewild, CA
Ron Thompson   Idlewild, CA
If Molly climb our route the first time she never used bolts, pins or fixed anchors on the entire route. On the first belay ledge no anchor bolts. Strange? When we climb the crack system we noticed no anchors, chalk or pin scars or any fixed anchors in the softest sandston in Sedone for a route rated 5.10 A3 R. This says, than climbing ethics were violated on all first ascent routes in Sedona after Molly climb Wind, Sand and Stars. Reason is, all new routes around the Mace have fixed anchors and bolts. Look at Vortex in a Can 5.10+ the route has fixed anchor bolts and is much easier climbing than Wind Sand and Stars with no aid climbing.Check out Molly first ascent on "Artist Tears." Today, more bolts have been added on Artist Tears because of the soft sandstone which makes the route much more secure today.Also, it does not destroy the soft sandstone so other may enjoy climbing this 4 pitch route without destroying the soft sandstone in this area. On Artist Tears Molly did install fix bolts and rated today at 5.8 C3 R. However, climbing our route we never seen no bolt, pin scars fixed anchors on the first and 2 belay ledge. On our route in the middle there is no crack or anything that can surport a pin placement bolts were needed. Strange thoes "supper climbers" used our bolts for safery rapping from the top using our bolts. Why could they not climb the route from the botton up like Royal Robbins did on Harding route when Royal tried to remove all the bolts? The route is not destoyed.Remember the Totem Pole first climb by Mark Powell, Jerry Gallwas, Don Wilson, Bill Feuerer, June 11-13, 1957 on the Navajo Reservation . The original route was chopped in 1975 by Bjornstad and Wyrick for "Eiger Sanction" filming. No one complain about what they did and a 90 foot "new" bolt ladder was added on the other side !

Jun 15, 2011
See Wind Sand and Stars…

Sad, very sad. Sep 27, 2010

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