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All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra… > Needles > Warlock > S Face (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13)
Jeff K. on the tricky face traverse.
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The South Face of Warlock Needle
To descend from The Warlock, you have to get to the Main Summit, so we had to downclimb from the Middle Summit (5.8?) and then climb up to the Main Summit on the last part of Imaginary Voyage.
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Flex
Dec 13, 2009
“Jeff K. on the tricky face traverse.”  

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South Face topo
sea of jugs finish. incredible climbing!!
After the face crux I climbed the crack till the end of the fingers/flare section and broke left onto the face aiming for the flake, ascended the flake and stepped left into a sea of jugs. two bolt anchor was just below me and looked bad. rusty 1/4"
The South Face of Warlock Needle
Jeff K. on the tricky face traverse.
To descend from The Warlock, you have to get to the Main Summit, so we had to downclimb from the Middle Summit (5.8?) and then climb up to the Main Summit on the last part of Imaginary Voyage.
Dow climbing the arete to the top of the Main Summit of The Warlock. There are 2 bolts to protect the arete. This is the last part of Imaginary Voyage. (Forest fire—"Schaeffer Fire"—burning in background.)
Climbing a groove to the Middle Summit.
Final hand crack to below summit block (Pitch 8 for us).
Climbing a cool groove to below the summit block (Pitch 8 for us).
Wide featured crack climbing (Pitch 7 for us).
The psychological face traverse (Pitch 6 for us).