Bolt ladder on Eagle Dance

All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall > Eagle Dance (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+)

Bolt ladder on Eagle Dance

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We spotted this peregrine on 15 November 2005, in the cave at the top of pitch 3. We saw him circling above us as we started the climb, again here, and later we saw him below us when we reached our high point at the top of p8.

Andy Hansen on the bolt ladder. Fall 2011. Taken with an old Olympus 35mm.<br>
www.mattkuehlphoto.com

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3.8 from 8 votes

John Hegyes

Nov 20, 2009

“Bolt ladder on Eagle Dance”

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Nearby Photos

Jimmy Newberry and Geoff "Madman" Conley re-racking on the 1st continuous ascent of Eagle Dance, Dec 1980. Photo by Phil Broscovak

Dawn, day two. Jorge said it would be an awesome bivy! But I think that in some ancient Andean dialect the word "bivy" must meen "ramp of endless sliding". Thanx Jorge!

Eagle Wall from the lower Painted Bowl with routes marked (note that bottom pitches of these routes are not visible due to the "foreground bump")

We spotted this peregrine on 15 November 2005, in the cave at the top of pitch 3. We saw him circling above us as we started the climb, again here, and later we saw him below us when we reached our high point at the top of p8.

Bolt ladder on Eagle Dance

Andy Hansen on the bolt ladder. Fall 2011. Taken with an old Olympus 35mm.<br>
www.mattkuehlphoto.com

This photo shows the final rappel, from an anchor in the middle of the face just left of pitches and 2. It took us just under 1 hour to rappel the route. We made 9 rappels with a single 70m as follows: <br>
1. Top of Pitch 9 <br>
2. Top of Pitch 8 <br>
3. Top of Pitch 7 <br>
4. Top of Pitch 5 <br>
5. Top of Pitch 4 <br>
6. Top of Pitch 3 <br>
7. Halfway up Pitch 3 <br>
8. Top of Pitch 2 <br>
9. Middle of the face just left of Pitches 1 and 2

Ethan following the crux pitch up high on Eagle Dance with Wilson looming in the background.

The Rougeux Brothers, Mike (belaying) and Brian high on Eagle Dance. Photo from LT29 - Drew Peterson

Nate starting the first pitch

The bolt ladder of Pitch 7 of Eagle Dance.

Josie McKee following the crux pitch, with Mt Wilson in the background

Looking down the long pitch 1, top of Black Tower to the right.

Andy Hansen higher up. Typical rounded Eagle Dance edges. Fall 2011 Taken with an old Olympus 35mm.<br>
www.mattkuehlphoto.com

The Wall Crawler aka Jimmy Newberry "warmin' up" at dawn in upper Oak Creek canyon on the way to Eagle Dance, Dec 1980.

James climbing Pitch 1 of Eagle Dance.

The top of the short 5th pitch, right before the aid section.

Eagle Dance

The "thrash and dangle" section with no thrashing!

There is a whole chapter about the FA of this route in Joanne Urioste's 2026 memoir "Collages of Rock & Desire".
<br>
Its a good read. She and her husband Jorge eatablished this route (and hundreds of others). She also wrote the first guidebook to Red Rocks.

some nice fellows on eagle dance- shot from levitation 29

Jared Coburn of Fort Collins, CO, on the crux pitch of Eagle Dance.

Pitch 7 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 6 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 4 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 2 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 1 on Eagle Dance

Looking up from the base

Starting pitch 3 (from the false bivy).

Climbers on Eagle Dance from the approach. The bottom climber is at the top of pitch 1, the upper climber is about 3/4 of the way up pitch 2.

You can see the start of pitch one to the right of the large pillar

Dirt tiptoes up the first 10a pitch.

John Hegyes aids the bolt ladder

Pitch 9 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 4 of Eagle Dance.

Bennett getting his aid on.

One of the bolts was sticking about an inch out of the wall (as of March 2016, and by MP comments it has been that way for awhile), but fortunately it could be supplemented with an 0.5 cam. both james and i weighted this bolt and it held, but it was a tad unnerving.

Looking up Pitch 4, photo by Jake Wyatt

The start of Pitch 5 of Eagle Dance (which we linked with Pitch 6).

Pitch 1 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 2.

Pitch 2 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 8 of Eagle Dance.

Pitch 3 on Eagle Dance

Looking down from the p3 (or p2, depending...) belay.

Pitch 5 on Eagle Dance

Pitch 9 of Eagle Dance.

Pitch 7 on Eagle Dance

Looking up Pitch 5

Pitch 8 on Eagle Dance

This photo is taken looking up towards the top of eagle wall from the top of pitch 9. One more pitch will bring you to the top of Eagle Wall. But because there are no fixed anchors after the top of pitch 9, most parties do not climb the 10th pitch and they rap the route from the top of pitch 9. We toyed with the idea of climbing the 10th pitch so that we could officially top out, but this would mean a much longer and unknown descent, so we gave in to temptation of a quick descent and getting back to the car before dinnertime....

Pitch 10 on Eagle Dance

Looking down at P4, you can see the head of the eagle. This is a classic RR face pitch.

Eagle Dance

Geoff Conley at the false bivy below the Eagle's neck.

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