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Bolted Block of Wood
ID 106541466

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Mark Cushman
Sep 10, 2009
Bolted Block of Wood  
Truly "great stuff!" Nov 13, 2009
DaveB  
The Cushman Face & Headwall

(Using the topo above...)

Route Beta
1. Ascend lower-right seam, moving up and left to the base of an obvious vein.
2. Protect well (#2.5 Friend) and follow steep vein straight up to an ear (just below a large hueco.)
3. The Traverse (crux #1) - Gently move left out onto face using nubs and bumps finally reaching a crease. Here, descend slightly and continue moving left onto the lip of a HUGE cave.
4. Lasso the "Moose's Tooth" and follow the lip left to the edge of cave.
5. Staying just left of cave's mouth, ascend the sharp arete through a slight overhang to emerge above the cave onto to small slab beneath "the Nose."
6. Climb slab (delicate friction here) to small hueco. Protect well with #6 Friend and get ready.
7. The Nose (crux #2) - Surmount the intimidating and protruding roof using power (and crucial "heel hook") to reach the blunt ridgeline arete. Warning - can be greasy here. Move up to ledge just below Brow.
8. Head Wall Slab (crux #3) - Balance and run it out using horizontal & sloping edges to a solitary bolt on your left (you can't miss it) - CLIP! (Whew!) Keep it together and continue up using tiny flakes and other debris to finally reach tree line....and the route's end.

Descent
1. Hike/bushwhack north through forest (DO NOT disturb the animals).
2. After passing over summit, forest begins to thin. Find and rap off one of the remaining trees on the back side to shoulder. Traverse left and down, returning to packs. Sep 11, 2009
That one might actually come in handy. I wouldn't chop that one. Sep 10, 2009

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