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The maps in the guide book always confused me... There for i didnt climb there for a long time... Now i understand the cliff with all of its link ups and here is a map the way it makes sense to me...
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lee hansche
Aug 29, 2009
The maps in the guide book always confused me... There for i didnt climb there for a long time... Now i understand the cliff with all of its link ups and here is a map the way it makes sense to me...  
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There is a 12b/c just between Predator and the second pitch of Tropicana called The Opportunist that Chris Smith put up a Few years ago.. great route. Most of it is really fun, steep, juggy 5.11 with some long moves. You then come to a rest, then head left to surmount a bulge at the top on smaller holds with nice air below you. With a long rope and a few slings to reduce drag you can combine the first pitch of Orange Crush (5.9 and now bolted) with it to to make a long super pitch.

This route often seeps, but can be climbable even when somewhat wet.

This is a great barefoot climb. Sep 24, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Also, there are 2 second pitches to Captain Hook called Peter Pan and Tinkerbell, both 12c. I forgot which is which. They are good, steep interesting routes that few know about that are very worth doing. To do them, climb Capt Hook past the usual anchor to a higher one. Clip in and pull the rope through and get back on belay to reduce drag and shoot for the left route. A 60 meter rope will get you lowered from the top. For the right route, you can also come in from Purple Microdot and do the same thing with your rope. I am not usually into increasing the fixed draws at Rumney, but these routes could use them, hopefully nice tan colored ones Sep 24, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Awesome, thanks Mark!! Sep 24, 2009

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