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The maps in the guide book always confused me... There for i didnt climb there for a long time... Now i understand the cliff with all of its link ups and here is a map the way it makes sense to me...
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lee hansche
Aug 29, 2009
The maps in the guide book always confused me... There for i didnt climb there for a long time... Now i understand the cliff with all of its link ups and here is a map the way it makes sense to me...  
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Awesome, thanks Mark!! Sep 24, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Also, there are 2 second pitches to Captain Hook called Peter Pan and Tinkerbell, both 12c. I forgot which is which. They are good, steep interesting routes that few know about that are very worth doing. To do them, climb Capt Hook past the usual anchor to a higher one. Clip in and pull the rope through and get back on belay to reduce drag and shoot for the left route. A 60 meter rope will get you lowered from the top. For the right route, you can also come in from Purple Microdot and do the same thing with your rope. I am not usually into increasing the fixed draws at Rumney, but these routes could use them, hopefully nice tan colored ones Sep 24, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There is a 12b/c just between Predator and the second pitch of Tropicana called The Opportunist that Chris Smith put up a Few years ago.. great route. Most of it is really fun, steep, juggy 5.11 with some long moves. You then come to a rest, then head left to surmount a bulge at the top on smaller holds with nice air below you. With a long rope and a few slings to reduce drag you can combine the first pitch of Orange Crush (5.9 and now bolted) with it to to make a long super pitch.

This route often seeps, but can be climbable even when somewhat wet.

This is a great barefoot climb. Sep 24, 2009

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