The steep headwall. This is the funnest section of the climb.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain > N Buttress (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The steep headwall. This is the funnest section of the climb.

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Looking down the ridge.

Despite considering bailing when storms came rolling in early, the route was in the bag.

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2.0 from 1 vote

Frederic Regis

Aug 25, 2009

“The steep headwall. This is the funnest section of the climb.”

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This is how my partner and I pitched out this route. Six pitches of roped climbing, with a long 4th class scramble to the top, maybe three rope lengths worth (tan/lt. yellow line at top). P4 was more of a traverse (orange line) to get to the huge ledge system below P5 & P6. Climbed it 9.1.07

PK looking famous near the summit on Pagoda.

A route overlay Pagoda Peak's North Buttress.

The top of the 6th pitch.

A view of the North Buttress.

Looking up at the complete North Buttress of Pagoda from below. The dark band where the route starts just above can be seen here.

Pitch #3 (I led) was run out. We followed the group ahead of us who didn't like the dihedral/left-facing-crack for whatever reason (green line). So, I went around to the right (red line) and was faced with steep slab (5.7) and ended up ~35' above my last gear placement below a shitty roof. Finally got a #1 DMM Wallnut placed, so that I wouldn't plummet off that steep lichen covered slab. Fun.

Looking down on P. 4 (crux pitch) after emerging from the "staircase face" which is steep but positive 5.7 climbing. Pictured are Patrick and Chip Linnemann on Chip's 50th birthday!

Tim starting up the "crux" pitch (p4).

Belay from top of pitch #1.

Fabio begins Pitch #5, probably the funnest pitch of the day. This begins above a very large belay ledge and ascends cracks while ending in a chimney of sorts. Pitch #6 was loose chimney climbing. I led this up the chimney for a bit, then moved left onto the face so as not to kill my belayer with rockfall.

First pitch of the headwall... juggy climbing and really fun. Watch for loose holds though.

Nice view of Pagoda.

The North Buttress of Pagoda as seen from the east. The "vertical tower" can be seen in the top of the photo -the crux 4th pitch starts up the left side of the gold colored rock on this skyline prow. The dark band that the route starts above can be seen in the bottom right hand side. The bottom 3 pitches stay on this side of the buttress as they ascend the corners just left of the skyline ridge. Classic!

Looking on the first pitch of Pagoda (second pitch looks same).

P7 above the 4th class narrow ridge crest and just 60' below the summit.

Looking down into the upper reaches of Glacier Gorge from near the summit of Pagoda. Climber on the upper North Buttress.

Looking down the ridge.

The steep headwall. This is the funnest section of the climb.

Despite considering bailing when storms came rolling in early, the route was in the bag.

N. Buttress

Fabio begins pitch #2.

Fabio nears the end of pitch #3 as I belay him.

Climber approaching the summit after an ascent of the North Buttress.

Tracy coming down the descent gully.

Looking up pitch 2. Aim for left of the squre-capped roof.

In this photo, the climber is at the start of pitch 5. The photo was taken from the top of pitch 3. Pitch 4 is the section in between.

Upper ridge (3rd-4th).

Lower class ridge in the last 1/4. Romping to the best view of Glacier Gorge?

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