Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.

All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Wigwam Creek/Lo… > Sun > Better Lock Next Time (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.

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At the top of the last pitch you can turn left with back against the right wall and get a break from the jamming. The crack gets wider, and the last moves to the top are cruxy.

At the final hard moves of the P4 crux crack. You really have to milk the (only) several rests on this pitch. I did not successfully do that on this attempt.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

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Ivan Rezucha

Aug 20, 2009

“Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.”

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Nearby Photos

Pitch 2.

Pitch 4.

Pitch 1.

Pitch 3.

At the top of the last pitch you can turn left with back against the right wall and get a break from the jamming. The crack gets wider, and the last moves to the top are cruxy.

Still hard! Getting through the "A"-shaped alcove below Paul is quite hard. Where Paul is is straightforward splitter jams but sustained. Higher up it gets a little strange as it gets wider. You really want 4 or 5 gold Camalots for this pitch. Paul lowered almost to the belay to back clean. Chuck Graves, on a subsequent ascent, lowered twice to back clean.

At the final hard moves of the P4 crux crack. You really have to milk the (only) several rests on this pitch. I did not successfully do that on this attempt.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

The two upper, dihedral pitches. Absolutely stellar climbing.

Near the start.

Photo credit: Dancesatmoonrise.<br>
<br>
Micah Morgan belaying Matt Bruton up P2 on a windy day.

You can squeeze through (maybe) from the inside to this position, or you can climb the outside and then swing into the squeeze. From here, it's a struggle to reach the jams at the base of the crack.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Heel toeing in the strange slot. The rope runs into the "cave" to some gear deep inside. You can tunnel up further and totally top rope this first crux.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Jack cranking up the final pitch.

The incredible top dihedrals seen from the left side descent.

The thin hands to fingers crack is gnarly with sharp knobs. As it leans to the left it gets easier.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Pitch 1 is not visible. Pitch 2 requires a few slab moves to gain jams/laybacks up the left-angling flake and crack in the middle of the photo. Pitch 3 traverses left and up across more slab to the shadow-casting block. The top dihedrals (hard to see) cruise up the grey rock between the two prominent, orange-streaked headwalls.

Midway up this long second pitch you move right to the other crack. The entire pitch is quite difficult and awkward. It felt like 5.9 to me when I led it this year.

Pitch 2 traversery.

Cleaning the second belay at the start of P3. The start of P3 is a 5.9 traverse straight sideways from the edge of this ledge/flake. If you lack the hand-sized gear to belay here, you can place some small gear high and right and do the traverse left as part of P2 (but then you need the proper gear to belay further left--#4 Camalot and #0.75 Camalot will do it).

The whole climb with a good shot of the upper edge deal pitches.

The P3 "5.9" layback was the easiest part of the climb. If you're into that sort of thing, you may be able squeeze through the slot and avoid the layback. The P4 crux crack is visible at the top left of the photo, and above that is the left wall of the final corner.<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Scott comers out of the top of our P2 (top of P4 by book, P3 by this site) onto the 'saddle' belay area.

Pitch 1.

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Paul Rezucha

Alameda

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