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Southeast Face (5.7), Yataghan, Sandia Mountains, NM.
ID 106494211 ·

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Chris Wenker
Jul 20, 2009
Southeast Face (5.7), Yataghan, Sandia Mountains, NM.  
The beta shown for the SE face is way, way off. Dave and I started in the left side of the gulley and then stuck pretty much just to the right of the arete. Three of the pitches wound up with belay positions on the arete and we may have gone onto the left side of the arete for part of several pitches. Also, the standard rope length then was 120'(37 metres) of white cable laid nylon. The 50 metre rope didn't seem to show up until the middle 1960s. One of the pitches on the original climb was harder than Aviary Ort (which we just called route #3 on N face of Thumb)and we managed to work around it on later. This variation took us about 25' or so to the right of the arete where we put in a bolt for protection - and somebody stole the hanger. We chose the climb since the silhouette seen from Albuquerque is very striking. Sep 28, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Thanks for the comments Reed. The overall line as illustrated on this topo is pretty faithful to the way both Kline (1970) and Hill (1993) have the "Southeast Face" route described (although the last pitch on on Kline's photo is apparently misplotted). Your FA route truly sounds like it was off to the left, and may never have touched the current route. Sep 30, 2009

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