The first move of the climb (10a variation)

All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Calaveras Domes > Calaveras Dome > 2. Central Dome > Wall of the Worlds (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13)

The first move of the climb (10a variation)

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3rd pitch variation, 5.10. This joins the 5.8 crack a bit higher than the climber shown in the photo.
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Photo by Fraser Query

Looking up at the route

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Rick D

Jun 10, 2009

“The first move of the climb (10a variation)”

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Nearby Photos

Pitch 7 - Wild dykes

caughtinside nears the end of the long dihedral leading to the top of the Mexican Flake. Hammer Dome and the Mokelumne in the background. 5/2013.<br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano

Looking up at Pitch 6, the first face pitch. I've marked the location of the first bolt and the anchors. The first bolt is quite difficult to see as a bolt since it is painted to more or less match. I actually saw it pretty quick but it took some moving around to look at it from different angles to convince myself that it was a bolt and not just a piece of protruding rock. The other bolts are much easier to see from the previous bolt.

On Pitch 7 you move up and right past a bolt to a second then follow a pair of dikes up and left. They eventually cross a roof and a flake where there seems like there might be an anchor. The anchor is actually still 30-40' up and left along the same dike line that you had been following.

"War of the Walls" topo.

Corner at the top of the Mexican Flake.

Blue line is the standard 10a start. The red line is the direct, 11-, start. I can't comment on the quality of the standard start, but the direct finger crack is excellent...even the undercling at the beginning is a lot of fun.<br>
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Photo credit: Rick D.

Calaveras Dome - Wall of the Worlds. Original topo by Jay Smith, plus a few of my edits

direct version p5

Long, fun 5.9 dihedral pitch leads to the top of the Mexican Flake. caughtinside raps off. 5/2013. <br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano

Green camalot jams half way through the first pitch.

Topo to Wall Of The Worlds

The 10c splitter. If you start on the ramp coming from the left, it's 10a. If start direct, it's 11a.

Looking down on Pitch 6 with all the bolts clipped. None of the run outs seemed that bad, nothing you would not expect if face climbing in Yosemite or Tuolumne.<br>
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*There is a very height dependent move getting to the 3rd bolt on this pitch. You don't need to be particularly tall (maybe 5'8") to do it, but if you are too short... well my wife battened up the rope to reach the hold.

Pink dotted line is the approached trail we took

3rd pitch variation, 5.10. This joins the 5.8 crack a bit higher than the climber shown in the photo.
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<br>
Photo by Fraser Query

The first move of the climb (10a variation)

Looking up at the route

Pitch 6 - Crazy knobs

I think this is the top of the 2nd pitch of War of the Walls (after the traverse left under the roof and then up the crack).<br>
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Is this right? We were there only one day from Utah, climbed the first three pitches of the route in this photo, and then rapped (I think we combined the first two pitches). Can't even remember what we climbed for sure!!