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Michael Schneiter > Bolt Drop Test
The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt above the suspect bolt was only about 5 feet above so not a big runout.
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And the result: The flake held and the test block was left swinging in mid air. However, I was so amazed that the flake held that I went up and checked it out with a crowbar. It easily came out when levered out on. Of course, that begs the question: How many whippers would it have held before failing? Or, if someone pulled out on it, would it have failed? Either way, I removed the flake because after seeing how loose it wasy I didn't feel right in leaving it there. Then, I added a new bolt.
Looking up at the drop test block in position at the bolt above the suspect bolt.
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Michael Schneiter
Jun 7, 2009
“The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt above the suspect bolt was only about 5 feet above so not a big runout.”  

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The "cheap" bolt from Lowe's didn't fail but it also got pretty mangled along with the old hanger leftover from the Puoux rebolting efforts. Of course, it experienced a straight out pull, one that is not typical in a climbing fall unless on an overhanging route.
The drop test dummy. Weighed in at 200 pounds on a bathroom scale.
The gate on the carabiner popped outside the biner and wouldn't return. Pretty wild to think about the forces involved.
The bolt, hanger and biner on the test block got kind of mangled but didn't fail.
And the result: The flake held and the test block was left swinging in mid air. However, I was so amazed that the flake held that I went up and checked it out with a crowbar. It easily came out when levered out on. Of course, that begs the question: How many whippers would it have held before failing? Or, if someone pulled out on it, would it have failed? Either way, I removed the flake because after seeing how loose it wasy I didn't feel right in leaving it there. Then, I added a new bolt.
The drop test block in position. It was set up to simulate a leader fall from the bolt above the suspect bolt with some slack in the system to simulate pulling up slack to clip the bolt, etc. The bolt above the suspect bolt was only about 5 feet above so not a big runout.
Looking up at the drop test block in position at the bolt above the suspect bolt.
"On belay"
A "cheap" wedge bolt from Lowe's and an old hanger salvaged from the Puoux rebolting efforts.
The suspect bolt.
The suspect bolt.
The suspect bolt placement. A flake that is clearly cracked all the way around. You can do a thin hand jam between the flake and the wall.
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