Freeing the aid ladder with top rope courage.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Priest > Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0)

Freeing the aid ladder with top rope courage.

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a great read

Looking down joyous P1. Note that you can get a bomber nut in the wall near the top of the lower block, and there is a chockstone just before the first bolt. After that you're on your own to the drilled angle and chockstone at the entry to the squeeze.

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Jay Eggleston

May 20, 2009

“Freeing the aid ladder with top rope courage.”

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Nearby Photos

Bailey leading up the second pitch. With enough updraft I bet you wouldn't even need pro!

climber on 03-21-2010

Simon's improvisational gear placement in the Honeymoon Chimney.

Nico leading pitch 3, photos taken from summit of Nuns

The third pitch step across. I aided off of the ancient bolts, but did link p2 and 3 with a 70m. Belated at the second funky bolt after the traverse below the finger crack which is not the last pitch.

bird's eye view

Emily finishing up the crux pitch. photo by chelsea morgan from the top of the nuns

Improbable geometry of the 2nd pitch.

Rob tops out on the Priest

Marvin Porter at the base c 1983

Nico has stepped across

Looking up after entering the squeeze on pitch 1. It was super tight.

Diller making the step across. His 6'5" height was very helpful

Nico leading pitch 3; about to step across onto the arete

I opted for my Valley Giant for P1 b/c I suck at wide.

This is where the tunnelling begins.

Legends in the summit register.

Joseffa Meir gets ready to stem out onto the calcite edges on P3 of 'Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)' on The Priest. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

About to lunge over onto the face.

Final Direct A4 pitch From "Beyond the vertical" kors book"

Summit view looking west to Sister Superior and Colorado River.

rope management for windy raps

Matt on the cushy P1 belay ledge

So cool!

Roger Ellsworth on the super-cool third pitch.

Jay Hicks deep in the Priest on the second pitch.

Comfortable rack for P1 (apart from 3 additional slings for bolts & chockstones). I doubled up gear on chockstones, so you could leave a nut & 0.4 behind if you don't care to. Also, tie your knot in long and clip direct to the VG for better climbing.

Two Germans on top of the Priest as seen from the Nun

Matt en route to the Rectory

Chad working up the last 5.8 pitch on Honeymoon.

Nic demonstrating the proper way to lead the exposed steparound of P4.

Castleton from the approach

Bomber first bolt. Squeezing past the fin above to get to the drilled angle was an effort.

Just above the second pin on P1. Photo by John Korfmacher.

Looking down from 10 feet above the drilled piton on pitch 1. Its about 10 feet from that piton to a no hands stance where pro can be placed and squeezing into the chimney begins.

Step across move on Honeymoon Chimney. Photo taken by George Rosenthal.

Joseffa Meir traverses out to some wild exposure on 'Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)'. Note the tilt in the background- this section of climbing is actually steeper than it looks at first. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

Matt about to top out on the P2 belay. The chimney created an intense wind tunnel.

looking down the P2 chimney

Matt starting up P2

Michelle looking down P1

Matt in the not so squeezy squeeze

Leading the first pitch. I wish I had some big bros!

Aiding the bolt ladder over the 5.11 section. Even in this case, some free moves off of the arete are needed to reach between the bolts and to finish. If you don't want to do that while aiding, bring a cheater stick and a hook. Nic is at the belay.

4th pitch step around to a bomber safe safe safe crack that is truly 5.8.

Nearing the final crux, where the offwidth makes a funny s-shape just before you can enter the squeeze. Fortunately you can place some gear in a chockstone at this section.

a great read

Freeing the aid ladder with top rope courage.

Looking down joyous P1. Note that you can get a bomber nut in the wall near the top of the lower block, and there is a chockstone just before the first bolt. After that you're on your own to the drilled angle and chockstone at the entry to the squeeze.

looking toward Parriot Mesa

Getting ready for my morning cardio workout. The first crux is where a rock fin on the right pinches down. The next one is turning the corner into the squeeze.

the Priest

For most of P1, this was standard. A lot of it was much more tipped out or you had to throw it over your shoulder for a bit. Bring a VG12 in addition to the VG9 if you want to make this super chill...

heading back to the car

P3 Wheeeeeee!!!

looking back to the Priest

Route topo. I'll try to replace this with a better photo later.

last views of the Rectory

Sweet route on a world class tower

Tony Bubb a few meters up Honeymoon Chimney's first pitch, where it is merely awkward, but before it turns to a grovel. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2003.

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Jay Eggleston

Denver

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