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John Knight
Apr 9, 2009
A. Knight Moves 5.7 5 bolts + small gear. Located directly above “Mouse Maze” (5.9) and “Lama” (5.10d R). Move out right onto the arête after clipping bolt 1. Provides an interesting way to get to the base of the Owl’s Perch. Be careful to stay off the loose-toothlike feature that is left of the last bolt. Gets one star simply due to its value as a connecting pitch between Cracked Wall and the pinnacle. FA – John Knight & Ken Klis, 2008.

A1. Variation 5.9 4 bolts + small gear. A interesting start variation that begins in the horizontal crack right of the anchors and moves directly onto the arête after clipping bolt 2 (don’t clip bolt 1).

B. Huck-A-Mo 5.12a TR Located on the overhanging southeast face. TR – Ken Klis, 1989.

C. Owl’s Staircase 5.8 4 bolts + tiny gear. To access, climb “Knight Moves” (5.7) and scramble your way to the base of the spire. When you hit the spire, look up and right for the 1st bolt. A tiny cam or nut may be desired prior to stepping up to clip the 4th bolt. FA – John Knight & Ken Klis, 2008.

D. K-B Trip 5.10b 2 bolts + small gear. This climb and “J-K Flashback” (5.8) are located on the slab behind Owl’s Perch. Step up to clip bolt 1 and make a couple of “bouldery” moves to clip bolt 2. The grade eases up dramatically (about 5.6) above bolt 2 and connects to a series of vegetated ledges. There’s an interesting TR variation just left of the start under the oak tree. Bolts replaced in 2008. FA – Ed Keefe & Don Bergan, 1988.

E. J-K Flashback 5.8 5 bolts + small gear for the top. Starts right of “K-B Trip.” Look for bolt 1 just below the large flake. Rap back to the base or move out right from the top and scramble to the base of “Private Pepper” (5.7) on Jam Crack Wall. FA – John Knight & Ken Klis, 2008.

Top Rope Variations 5.9 to 5.11 Not shown on topo. Once at the top of the spire, you can TR a variety of climbs on all sides of the pinnacle ranging from 5.9 to 5.11. Be careful of loose rock on the steep east side that overlooks Cracked Wall. TR – Ken Klis probably top roped everything in the during the 80s.
 

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