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T. Melin floats up Sweet Pain
ID 106392726 ·

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  4.6 from 5 votes

Mar 31, 2009
T. Melin floats up Sweet Pain  
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
In my opinion, this route will go "closer" to 12a (definitely solid at 11d) if you don't use these big jugs out right. Figuring out an alternate sequence on smaller crimps straight up the line of bolts (not out left) is thoughtful, and executing it requires crimping more or less at the 11+/12- level. Jan 15, 2016
Sounds like you are saying it's 12a if you avoid the good holds that are easily reachable on the route. I guess it would be 12a if you called some holds off and make it an eliminate. I onsighted it and probably could have figured out an even easier sequence than the one I used to make it even easier. Amazing movement just wish it was longer. Definitely makes it 11d in my book but 12a would be a stretch I think unless you call certain holds off. Jugs were everywhere and even in places that I didn't feel was far off the bolt line. A few crimpy moves were necessary either way but they were incut and with amazing feet. Sweet photo by the way! Nov 4, 2016
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
the big holds way out left (not right) are nice and all, but the moves getting back to the bolt line aren't much easier than the moves you're avoiding. taking the more natural line straight up flows so much nicer and doesn't put you into awkward fall zone. Nov 15, 2016

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