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Warning: the layback is steeper than it looks in this picture, it's not a slab.<br>
Photo by Andy Bemis.
ID 106359792

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Aleix
Feb 17, 2009
Warning: the layback is steeper than it looks in this picture, it's not a slab.
Photo by Andy Bemis.  
Fat Cow - This comment is way late, you may never see it. But in case you or anyone else is wondering, here's how it looks to me:
These guys are climbing on two ropes. So the 2nd and third are each tied into the end of a different rope. The leader will belay them both up at once (spaced as far apart as they wish) using the auto-locking ATC guide in 'guide-mode'.

What it sounds like you're talking about is if they were 'end-roping', using only one rope on the climb. In this case the middle-person would be tied in with a butterfly or a bite. They could each anchor in with a clove hitch just like normal and would undo their clove once each one respectively was the leader had the rope pulled up and had them on belay. First the middle person would undo and start climbing and would be on belay for that whole process, and when the end of the rope was reached, the 3rd would do the same, just like normal.

Either way, there would be slack in the system while the 2nd/ 3rd are cloving in, so they would either hold their own weight (but still be on belay right behind the slack) or go in direct with something else in the meantime. Again, this is just like normal as with a 2 person team. Pretty simple unless I'm missing something in the question or situation. Hope that helps. Aug 30, 2015
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
The pro looks solid. I think the biggest risk is slamming into the belayer and having the belayer lose control of the belay. Mar 16, 2012
fat cow
St. Paul, MN
fat cow   St. Paul, MN
thats baller for sure. I'd like to know if when the lowest(and assuming 3rd) was brought up and clove hitched in with the rope, if that was done on the rope between the belay device and the third climber, and therefore when there was slack in the system and the climber was holding his own weight on the rock. And how does the transition go once he's ready to follow the next pitch, does he have to go second, hold his own weight and let the higher up guy (2nd climber) untie his clove, then go? Oct 15, 2011

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