The Squeeze.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Sister Superior… > Jah Man (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

The Squeeze.

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Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off the ground

The Reverie and Castleton Tower from the base of Jah Man.

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jhump

Dec 12, 2008

“The Squeeze. ”

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Nearby Photos

Sister Superior

Getting close to Sister Superior, looking back toward Parriot and the Nuns? Gorgeous.

There are good belays and there are good belays...

great day for a kite

Top of the spire, ma!

Third pitch.

3rd pitch.

josh toasting some buns on the summit.
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he made a promise to everyone that his ass would be tanner than our faces by the end of the trip, and he kept his word.

Rapping the anchors to the right.

Summit shot with Castleton and the Rectory in the background.

Sister Superior showing Jah Man

rapping down jah man. easily done in 3 raps with a 70m

The new Jah Man Route after first pitch fell off last week.

Before and After the flake on P1 fell.

Route topo for Jah Man.<br>
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A 70m makes it from the top of the chimney to the ground with room to spare.

George Armstrong on Jah Man.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon Mon.

P2 meets P3 (Gear anchor)

Finally above the fog into blinding sunshine. Castle Valley shows its beauty.

Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!

Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitch of Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?)

With my son Andy Ross summit Jah Man 1995

Thin hands

birds

Hiking up the approach trail. You can see the whole route in this photo.

Jah Man<br>

Steve Tweito coming up pitch 4. Nice view of the ridge running to Castleton.

New line

on top

Tim Foulkes replacing a 1/4 inch bolt on the last pitch of Jah Man. Somebody buy that guy a dank soda!

About to go for the approach!

Darren "sport-climbing" on the last pitch.<br>
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Beta: You can see the old star-drive bolts and the drilled pin. The drilled pin seemed "good" by desert standards and is clippable from the stance. It is the best bolt on the pitch, and it protects the crux move. The rest of them seemed only good for holding a quick draw.

Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.

'mornin' Sista

Brad, Travis and John on the summit.

Summit bolt

Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off the ground

The Squeeze.

The Reverie and Castleton Tower from the base of Jah Man.

Matt traverses left on the tricky crux of Jah Man.

The new Pitch 3. 5.12 calcite fingers

Yours truly rocking the Casbah on the sister squeeze.

Tony Bubb near topping out high over the valley on Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?).

Chino Parada on P3

Jah Man

the plaque at the base of Jah Man

Tristan Hechtel leading the great hand crack on pitch 4

Angela Van Stein taping up for our summer ascent

Happy to be on top

Pointing towards Arches NP, 1997.

Its a looooooong slog up to the Sister.

Suzette Miller says, "Hey Dad, this is easy" (maybe if you are 17 and have tiny hands).

New P1

Nobody on the route - Suzette and dad on a killer classic climb.

WOOOOO

TJ on pitch 3

As of May 19, 2017 the summit anchors were pretty sketchy. The newest bolt pulls clear out of the rock. The old piton and ancient angle don't inspire confidence.

3 raps (with one 70m) and 2 raps (with double 60m)

Top of Sister Superior right before my partner dropped his Blackberry off the North side haha

Eric Everson on the crux pitch of Jah Man.

Starting the third pitch-- tight hands- the bane of my existence!