P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > River Rd > Anasazi Buttress > Artist Tears (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3)

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

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More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

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5.0 from 1 vote

Jason Kaplan

Nov 11, 2008

“P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.”

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Nearby Photos

Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

Todd Gordon comfortable at the belay. Todd Gordon Collection.

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

more protection... so what were the bad pieces like? You will just have to go do the route to really know.

More great pro.

Bitchin krukonogi hook

Some excellent "fixed gear" on the crux pitch.

contemplating and concentrating

different view of the same piece.

Looking down the "crux" pitch

Our Findings

More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

ripped scream aid, I'm suprised the nut held. Good thing as I stopped just above Eric at the belay.

Greg Epperson on pitch 1.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.

Artist Tears

Sweet another successful lasso! This way I didn't have to risk a factor 2 onto the drilled angle anchor.

Beauty

The goods

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

from near the top on the way back down.

looking down from the top.

looking down from the belay on top of P3.

Looking down pitch 4

NOT COOL! Maybe scratching a name (like the routes name) on a first isn't so bad but it's not ok for everyone to do it there after, like bragging rights, there was someone in 03. next thing you know it looks like a chalk board.

How they spotted this line in the black streak is beyond me.

it wasn't easy getting to here but I was pretty happy to be top stepping on a small nut to clip the first bolt in the bolt ladder above.

C.B. Gettin' it done on P3 of Arist Tears

Pitch 2

Pitch 1

The final real pitch...this pitch is the longest, steepest and most casual.

Artist's Tears. Photo: Todd Gordon

Eric on pitch 4, skipping most of the studs and placing natural clean gear for pro. alot of them are angled downward.

Nice tricam

Eric higher up P4.

this was set up above the first 2 pins, and below the nut that caught me. I figured it might keep from crashing into helpless eric below.

Eric on the lead.

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