P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

All Locations > Utah > Moab Area > River Rd > Anasazi Buttress > Artist Tears (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3)

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

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P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

Looking down pitch 4

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Jason Kaplan

Nov 11, 2008

“P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.”

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Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

Some excellent "fixed gear" on the crux pitch.

contemplating and concentrating

Todd Gordon comfortable at the belay. Todd Gordon Collection.

different view of the same piece.

More great pro.

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

Our Findings

more protection... so what were the bad pieces like? You will just have to go do the route to really know.

Looking down the "crux" pitch

Artist Tears

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

Looking down pitch 4

Artist's Tears. Photo: Todd Gordon

More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

C.B. Gettin' it done on P3 of Arist Tears

Hooking the next scar off the pitch 1 belay. scar = huge freaking sandy shallow blown-out fist-sized bottomless hole. Excellent route-finding skills!

ripped scream aid, I'm suprised the nut held. Good thing as I stopped just above Eric at the belay.

this was set up above the first 2 pins, and below the nut that caught me. I figured it might keep from crashing into helpless eric below.

Pitch 1

looking down from the top.

The final real pitch...this pitch is the longest, steepest and most casual.

Eric higher up P4.

it wasn't easy getting to here but I was pretty happy to be top stepping on a small nut to clip the first bolt in the bolt ladder above.

Eric on pitch 4, skipping most of the studs and placing natural clean gear for pro. alot of them are angled downward.

How they spotted this line in the black streak is beyond me.

NOT COOL! Maybe scratching a name (like the routes name) on a first isn't so bad but it's not ok for everyone to do it there after, like bragging rights, there was someone in 03. next thing you know it looks like a chalk board.

Eric on the lead.

looking down from the belay on top of P3.

Sweet another successful lasso! This way I didn't have to risk a factor 2 onto the drilled angle anchor.

from near the top on the way back down.

Greg Epperson on pitch 1.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.