Chicken Fart original hanger. This unusable hanger has been replaced with a nice ASCA unit. Chicken Fart is one of the original Mission Gorge leads.

mschlocker > Bolt_Replacement

Chicken Fart original hanger. This unusable hanger has been replaced with a nice ASCA unit. Chicken Fart is one of the original Mission Gorge leads.

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Hangers from Aqualunge, Mission Gorge. These are not even the original hangers on an FA - 1976. My bet is they are less than 20 years old. About 15 ft*lb on their stuck nuts was all that was needed to shear the bolts off. Scary, especially due to the runout nature of this climb.<br>
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Replaced 6/2007.

Some a-hole owes me some money for replacing these. Most likely retrobution as part of a bolt chopping pissing contest. I just wanna climb.

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mschlocker

Aug 22, 2008

“Chicken Fart original hanger. This unusable hanger has been replaced with a nice ASCA unit. Chicken Fart is one of the original Mission Gorge leads.”

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Nearby Photos

Rawl / Powers replacement photo guide. Mickey Finn - Mission Gorge. Both lead bolts replaced 6/2007.<br>
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Galvanic action did not seem to be a problem between carbon steel bolt and stainless hanger. In fact where they met is the only place the bolt was still a little shiny (shielded from water at interface). Good news since this seems to be common practice in a lot of areas such as Tahquitz.

Middle Finger anchor - Mission Gorge (replaced 3/2008). Patched holes will look even better once epoxy dries and light colored dust blows off.

Crack of Dust anchor. Note wear on ss carabiner.

An extraneous bolt removed (and not replaced) from Moby Dick, Santee Boulders. I was experimenting with my new tuning forks. #3 LA and #6 Bugaboo with 5/16" slots I milled in them. I could have used two more LAs to stack or a shim. I had to finish the job with a crow bar.

Rusty Underworld (Mission Gorge) Bolt. 6 years new carbon steel 1/2" Rawl/Powers bolt.

Tuning fork in action at Tahquitz

Bolt testing collage from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire. Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags. Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless.<br>
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Burned bolt and hanger very strong.

Trapeze Anchor, Mission Gorge. Replaced 2008.

TR bolts removed from Cornered, Mission Gorge (6/2007). The button head was actually the stronger of the two. You never know 'till you pull it.

Bolts from Your Lead, Mission Gorge. Note rust on crack on upper hanger. Indicates crack had been there a while. Replaced 8/2007.

Vise grip funkness for Power Bolt sleeve removal.<br>
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Somebody in the forum mentioned threading the sleeve with a 3/8" tap and pulling it with a 3/8" bolt. If it works I think I was one upped with that idea.

3/8" Stainless Power Bolt torque experiment. 40-45 Ft*Lb was needed to break bolt.

Khazaddum Wedge Bolts - Mission Gorge. Removed with crowbar 3/2007.

Replaced Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.

Masochist Anchor. Thanks CH for removing the original button heads clean out. Thanks ASCA for the hardware.

Hangers from Aqualunge, Mission Gorge. These are not even the original hangers on an FA - 1976. My bet is they are less than 20 years old. About 15 ft*lb on their stuck nuts was all that was needed to shear the bolts off. Scary, especially due to the runout nature of this climb.<br>
<br>
Replaced 6/2007.

Chicken Fart original hanger. This unusable hanger has been replaced with a nice ASCA unit. Chicken Fart is one of the original Mission Gorge leads.

Some a-hole owes me some money for replacing these. Most likely retrobution as part of a bolt chopping pissing contest. I just wanna climb.

Old bolts removed from Ramona Wall, Poway.

The other half of this bolt is stuck at the base of Khazaddum, Mission Gorge. FIXE never marketed any 10mm bolts in the US, but from what I hear they sold hundreds if not thousands. The oversized bolt does not work out so well in a 3/8" hole in hard rock. Luckily the bolt was easy to snap off. Much easier than even a smaller diameter Powers bolt I bashed around as an experiment.<br>
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I ruined a carbide drill trying to punch the remains into the hole. Some day this plug can be drilled out to open up the hole for the next generation.

Bolt testing curves from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire. Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags. Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless.

Various hardware removed (and replaced) from Glamdring, Mission Gorge. Anchor and 2 lead bolts replaced. One in original hole. Anchor is bomber, expensive stainless 1/2" Power Bolts. There were holes already started for that so I coughed up the dough.

Zeno's Paradox lower bolt. Notice the corrosion growth from 2007 to 2009. Interesting thing is the last place to rust is right where the hammer pounded the bolt in. I've noticed on Stainless bolts the only place that does rust is where the hammer hit it. Strange.

Smashed Underworld (Mission Gorge) Hangers.

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