Looking down what should be pitch 6; cool view, it's a long way to the river.

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Looking down what should be pitch 6; cool view, it's a long way to the river.

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Pitch 6.

Adam leading pitch 1.

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Jason Kaplan

Aug 10, 2008

“Looking down what should be pitch 6; cool view, it's a long way to the river.”

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The run out above the last bolt on P5. Notice Adam didn't place anything once at the ledge/roof above until after traversing past it. The rock is decomposing and hollow, so he didn't stop for a belay but instead mostly linked 5-6 until just about running out of rope. I took a line up and slightly right after this bolt, trending more right towards the top. No gear to protect this from a massive swing though, seemed better then using cams in crap rock especially for an anchor.

Looking down the crack along the top of P4.

I circled it in red, I think you can almost make out at least 2 more above it, but I'm not certain on that.

Adam about to lead pitch 5, equalizing the 2 bolts as the first piece seemed the best answer with an anchor in the crack below. Getting off the ledge is a little tricky, but eases up once above the bolts, the second bolt isn't too hard to get to and it eases up quite a bit after that.

Looking up from the bottom of P1.

A sea of granite awaits you. This is P4 - there are 3 pins before you can get gear into a 2 pin anchor, which you can back up right below the pins.

Pitch 6.

Looking down what should be pitch 6; cool view, it's a long way to the river.

Adam leading pitch 1.

This is the belay ledge we used at the top of P1 (1/2 ropelength up).

Me on top of pitch 4 just happy ro be alive, it started sprinkling after I reached the first bolt and was looking scary once at the second bolt. I almost lowered back down to wait the weather out but just kept going as it sprinkled. I was really scared above the third bolt and was getting hasty trying to get to the crack before things got really wet, it's kinda hard to know the right way up at times as there is really not much there. Hope your comfy smearing crystals and micro edging as falling would be pretty serious as the bolts will probably rip if you're far enough above.

Pitch 4. I didn't even see the first bolt untill I was 5-10 feet away, just the second and maybe third. Boy was I happy to see that piece of crap as omnious clouds loomed above.

We screwed up and belayed just after the crux of p2 for our first belay. Not the best idea cause you have to extend the #5 out a lot. While leading he was looking at decking on the first belay station. Adam mostly liebacked the crack until after it pinched then got in it like an OW, which didn't make placing gear friendly. A note for the second, not fun with a pack, can't get in as much as you want.

Heading up to the top of P2. There are some decomposing rock piles just out of view under the Gumdrop Spire.

The Gum Drop is pretty sweet. Anyone done the crack that traverses left to right then strait up to the top? Looks airy and fun.

BRCM summit plateau. Rappel bolts are on the NE corner.

This is just south and underneath the Gumdrop Spire. The belay before P4 (and the top of P3) is here. Not visible is the 3'+ wide chasm that is about 20' deep, which would be very bad to fall into.

OLD bolts, although solid, should probably be replaced.

P4 Slab.

Greg about halfway up P2.

Thanks to Jason Haas and the ASCA for these.

Pitch one and 2 are visible the belay for pitch 1 is marked to help with confusion. We belayed just above what should be the crux of P2. Oops.

Matt Raymond leading P4 Slab.

Big Rock Candy Mountain as seen from Metberry Gulch Road. Head towards the highest trees on the left hand (south) side, and continue around to the north to find the base of the route.

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