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Unknown route.  The easiest sport route on the Pinecone.
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Jeff Bryan
Jul 23, 2008
Unknown route. The easiest sport route on the Pinecone.  
Hi Stewart-
The climb pictured here only has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. I was unable to send and left a biner on bolt #3 (near the kid's feet in this picture). In the main forum you call this "Harder than it Looks" at 5.10a, and then here you call it 5.9 (I'd go with 5.10a but of course didn't actually send). After bailing on this route, I walked down further toward the left; right about to the middle of the wall, and sent a route with 7 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor; the crux was at the second or third bolt, I'll post a picture of it (I'd buy the 5.9 rating for that one). I feel like we might be talking about the same two routes but have just confused them; the Falcon Guide book is obviously outdated on this area and I'm pretty sure I can climb 5.9 without too much trouble. Just want to know how far to tuck my tail between my legs...
-Erin Aug 4, 2009
Hi Erin,

Yeah, it's 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. A Bill Schmasser route. On reclimbing it this summer, I think it's 5.9 for tallish people and 5.10- for shorter ones. Kind of a crimp move or layback that crack....

The new Rock Climbing Colorado book, 2nd edition, will be out next spring and have all the routes on Pine Cone Dome as well as lots of new stuff in the canyon.

Stewart Aug 4, 2009
Ah, I'm one of those shorter folks you referenced. But, crimp move? I was just stumped/intimidated by the layback.
Any idea what the route farther over left was that I described and posted a picture of?
I'll definitely look for the new book... although Elevenmile is a little out of my way in general. Aug 12, 2009

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