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First pitch is the curving 5.7 crack on the right.
ID 106204167

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john durr
Jul 14, 2008
First pitch is the curving 5.7 crack on the right.  
Did it that way once years ago so the memory is a bit dim, but I don't recall it being any harder than 8. Pro after the end of the crack was sparse but adequate.

It's likely that plenty of people have done it that way as the Vernon guidebook topo showed it as a 5.7 crack to a sling belay and the move over the roof as 8+.

There may be a move or two of 8 a bit out from gear (or the sling belay) once the crack peters out.

The crux is definitely getting over the roof no mater which of the three variations you use. (For the roof,the left side of the alcove looks heinous) Oct 23, 2013
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Do you remember how hard that middle crack felt? Thanks for commenting! Oct 22, 2013
deadly dan
Santa Fe, NM
deadly dan   Santa Fe, NM
I climbed the middle crack once. and then traversed right under the roof. Was wondering if anyone's climbed the crack to the left Jul 3, 2013

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