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Low on the pitch, before the first hard moves.  Photo by Bennett Barthelemy.
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Josh Janes
Jun 24, 2008
Low on the pitch, before the first hard moves. Photo by Bennett Barthelemy.  
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  

Congratulations on the send! Lee's interpretation of my comment is spot on. My point was that, until the critic steps up to do it in better style, they should keep their mouth shut. I assume that Bloom, et al chose to bolt it because they felt they couldn't get solid gear. Considering C3s are new, I wonder if there was safe pro using 1997 technology. I don't know those guys, & I've never been on the route, so I don't have a dog in this fight, but I think its lame for people to critiscize something they know nothing about based on a photo. It seems courteous to give them the benefit of the doubt until somebody proves them wrong. Generally the type of climber that has enough strength & vision to "prove them wrong" has enough class to reserve judgement. You've certainly shown that to be true!

FYI, Smith Rock is stacked with sweet trad lines. Seriously, its the best kept secret in the west. Maybe next time I'm out there I'll take you up on your offer.

PS that rack would work pretty well on the East Face, but you'll need some more RPs for the second pitch:) Nov 18, 2009
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Thanks Mono!

I'd been considering doing this for a few weeks before this thread got going. The comments just pushed it to the top of my ticklist. I wanted to jump in "well I think this route will go without gear and am planning on trying it", but until sent that is basically just spray. I held comment until after.

If you are in AZ you should give it a try. It's an amazing route in a pristine, beautiful setting.

I'm very exited to be closer to Smith for both the trad and sport. I love technical face routes which it seems like Smith has no shortage of. Let me know when you're in the area. It would be great to climb with you!

What East Face are you referring to? I've seen pics of the North Face of the Monkey Face which have made me salivate. Have you done that one? Have you been to Trout Creek?

Mike Nov 20, 2009
Josh Janes    
Well, I'd just like to say that my impressions of the rock quality might be wrong on this one... I wasn't there, but heard second hand about this pitch apparently being zippered recently on an onsight attempt - certainly a good argument in favor of there being bolts =) Dec 20, 2012

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