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All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Big Rock Candy… > Petered Out (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
OLD bolts, although solid, should probably be replaced.
ID 106184143 · · Copyright Violation?
This is just south and underneath the Gumdrop Spire. The belay before P4 (and the top of P3) is here. Not visible is the 3'+ wide chasm that is about 20' deep, which would be very bad to fall into.
P4 Slab.
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Jeremy Hakes
Jun 15, 2008
“OLD bolts, although solid, should probably be replaced.”  

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The run out above the last bolt on P5. Notice Adam didn't place anything once at the ledge/roof above until after traversing past it. The rock is decomposing and hollow, so he didn't stop for a belay but instead mostly linked 5-6 until just about running out of rope. I took a line up and slightly right after this bolt, trending more right towards the top. No gear to protect this from a massive swing though, seemed better then using cams in crap rock especially for an anchor.
Looking down the crack along the top of P4.
I circled it in red, I think you can almost make out at least 2 more above it, but I'm not certain on that.
Adam about to lead pitch 5, equalizing the 2 bolts as the first piece seemed the best answer with an anchor in the crack below. Getting off the ledge is a little tricky, but eases up once above the bolts, the second bolt isn't too hard to get to and it eases up quite a bit after that.
Looking up from the bottom of P1.
A sea of granite awaits you. This is P4 - there are 3 pins before you can get gear into a 2 pin anchor, which you can back up right below the pins.
Pitch 6.
Looking down what should be pitch 6; cool view, it's a long way to the river.
Adam leading pitch 1.
This is the belay ledge we used at the top of P1 (1/2 ropelength up).
Me on top of pitch 4 just happy ro be alive, it started sprinkling after I reached the first bolt and was looking scary once at the second bolt. I almost lowered back down to wait the weather out but just kept going as it sprinkled. I was really scared above the third bolt and was getting hasty trying to get to the crack before things got really wet, it's kinda hard to know the right way up at times as there is really not much there. Hope your comfy smearing crystals and micro edging as falling would be pretty serious as the bolts will probably rip if you're far enough above.
Pitch 4. I didn't even see the first bolt untill I was 5-10 feet away, just the second and maybe third. Boy was I happy to see that piece of crap as omnious clouds loomed above.
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