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Darshan climbs the Green Arch
ID 106161599

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Brad G
May 13, 2008
Darshan climbs the Green Arch  
When I did this climb back in '91 Steve Sutton was hanging at the base, and he told me that if you really want to "style" the route, then you have to stem it all the chimney. I seconded the crux, stemming all the way, and it was really good. I can see where this would be scary on the lead, but it was sweet that way. Just be sure to look for key holds on the lip of the dihedral in the crux well below the roof, these are manditory, and missing them is why I fell there. Never went back, but it was earlier that year when Rich Lake, a Stoney Point Local, hammered in all those fixed pins. Modern thin equipment allows one to protect super thin cracks like this one, yet there are compelling arguments regarding Fixed Gear: If you are going to leave human objects on the stone face, then make sure it is solid. Fixed pins are always suspect, and though a climb may be a "classic", if it has fixed gear, then that gear should be as solid as the moment it was when it was placed. I moved to an area that has a deep and rich history of respect for traditional climbing, and even here - Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah- the climbing community has agreed that if fixed gear is to be left on a route, then it needs to be solid, and many fixed pins were pulled and replaced with bolts. Don't get me wrong, the Salt Lake City climbing community is nowhere close to being "Retro-Bolt the Classics"...not even; however, It was recognized that in some cases, a pin that had weakened with age and exposure to the elements is of no further value, and though it may have been solid when it was initially placed, it is noting but trash now. Retro-bolting to replace fixed pitons is very different from adding bolts to routes where no fixed gear was left by the FA team. I started climbing at Tahquitz in 1969, and there were no FP in the Green Arch (an aid route at the time) then, so everything left since then is a retro-fit, because the old rules dictated that you removed all pins when you did a route, unless there is one there in the route description. I'd put in a vote to have single bolt in the lower section of the crack on the Green Arch where the crack is super thin. Above, there are tight finger locks, and I know there is ONE hand jam below the crux. I'll never do the climb again, so this is academic, but I think the issue of the nature of fixed gear needs to be addressed, especially on routes where there is so much of it, like "The Green Arch." Jan 15, 2015

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