The CMC Route on Mt. Moran with the Black Dike in prominent view.

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The CMC Route on Mt. Moran with the Black Dike in prominent view.

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Start of the approach heading up the rock fall. The trail is actually quite civilized if you follow cairns.

Looking down through the Horns and the Falling Ice Glacier from atop the Black Dike.

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Michael Schneiter

Feb 27, 2008

“The CMC Route on Mt. Moran with the Black Dike in prominent view.”

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Looking down through the Horns and the Falling Ice Glacier from atop the Black Dike.

Nearing the top of the CMC route on Mt. Moran on a one-day ascent. Not bad for an old duffer like Ray.

Downclimbing Drizzlepuss to the rap station. Barry (red jacket) is standing at the rap station. The rappel is less than 100' to the notch. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114

Climbing on the CMC Face with Falling Ice Glacier and the West Horn below. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114

Sunrise over east and west horns near the top of Drizzelpus

The preferred method of accessing Moran.

A view of us climbing the CMC route on Mt. Moran from the Drizzlepuss.

Alpine glow on the CMC Face as seen from the rap station on Drizzlepuss. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114

Gorgeous views on high on the CMC route

Traversing below Unsoeld's Needle. During the ascent we simul-climbed it but during the descent we downclimbed it unroped. Drizzlepuss is in shadow in the background. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114

At CMC camp, looking south toward the Cathedral group.

Simul-climbing the CMC face.

Rapping the CMC face.

Following one of the middle pitches. View north toward cathedral group.

Dihedral finish to the arete variation. I may have chosen the wrong dihedral, there were two more less overhanging to the right of it - one was clean open book and the other was a chimney. I'm sure either goes at the same grade.

John starting up the face.

Downclimbing the CMC

View down into the amphitheatre from the CMC route.

Summit of Moran after blitzing the CMC route in 4.5 hours....from the car!

My lead back up Drizzlepuss. Fun lead!

Near the top of the CMC face and heading for the 4th class downclimb.

Downclimbing the top of the CMC face.

Scrambling up Drizzlepuss.

The dihedral pitch (5.4) from the notch between drizzlepuss & the CMC face.

One of the camp spots at CMC Camp. A very nice place to camp!

Reaching the top of Drizzlepuss. The down climb starts on the other side of the notch where green jacket dude is headed.

This is where the trail breaks left, away from the rock slide, heading toward CMC camp. Notice the cairn. If you follow the cairns, the approach shouldn't feel to bad

Start of the approach heading up the rock fall. The trail is actually quite civilized if you follow cairns.

The CMC Route on Mt. Moran with the Black Dike in prominent view.