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This is one way to do the first move.
ID 106104841 ·

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Monomaniac
Feb 11, 2008
This is one way to do the first move.  
joshf
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
I saw this exact same move done with a pinch variation...far beyond my skill...the climber essentially was using the same holds except he was very slightly to the left pinching between a hard to see thumb and the vertical rail about 4 inches or so to the left. I only remember it because I saw the guy attempt it 5 or so times before he stuck it. At the time it seemed a truly ridiculous move. A friend was showing me around hueco at the time and it was amazing to come across these little caves with such amazing rocks (and rock art). I myself got totally whooped on the V2-3 slap problems in the area, but I recall several V0- highballs that were exhilarating to top out on. Nov 16, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
I dont't think it is a pinch variation. While there might be other ways to do any given problem. In this photo the climber has their left hand on the hold that their right will end up on, perhapse using it as an intermediate to bump to the next hold which can be crimped or held as a pinch.

Actually I'm not even sure that the climbers left hand is on anything in this shot, but in motion. Nov 18, 2009

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