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Ellingwood Peak.
ID 106077091

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Joe Stern
Dec 11, 2007
Ellingwood Peak.  
Utah, India and Cambodia
Warbonnet   Utah, India and Cambodia
This is a more realistic view of Ellingwood (also known as Harrower Peak) than the wide angle pics in this set. Can be done from Island Lake if you want a semi-epic. Recommend camping in the mini-cirque & checking out the start of the standard route....a bit weird...possible to start up one of the steep mini-aretes & be off route, the best being the every-move is perfect 5.9, 7 pitch cruiser. If it gets easier or harder, you are off route. (If you move east into the steep bowl, you should be prepared for a first ascent but you will have plenty of strings of exposure on the standard route, esp. the "fin" that you can see in the pic). Stay on the main arrette to the summit, traversing a bit to the east (climber's left) for a super-exposed pitch. One of the most enjoyable climbs in the Winds....not often climbed. A bit of route finding; no fixed gear, no pins needed. Medium size rack of cams, nuts to 7, plenty of slings, 10 draws. Unlike most summits in the Winds, this summit is a sharp one (not like Shark's Nose but hairy if one slips and this is one Winds summit you do not want to slip off of). The south side is a surprising maze of super-sharp, downward-leaning flying saucer granite potato-chips....easy to have a very bad accident....or, incredibly easy to cut a rope because they WILL move, even if great care is taken. If near-summit is reached when darkish, do not summit (can mostly avoid potato-chip maze). Do not rappel route (there is a bit of loose rock), instead....carefully tip toe thru the razor blades strewn along a steep arrette (both sides) until flatter ground. Tempting to go down one (of two) of the north-facing couloirs but suggest against it if late (the western-most is OK but don't be reading the Wall Street journal on the way down). If camped at Island Lake, follow the easier terrain westward and crash into camp. If camped in Ellingwood Cirque (a bit trees and the wind, if it kicks up, swirls around like a southern hemisphere drain), as you leisurely walk down the flat ridge, begin heading north towards the Cirque & you will eventually arrive there. If going from Island Lake, suggest you hike up a day earlier, stash gear tens of feet up to avoid chewy animals & check out the route to ensure you get on the cruiser. Last tip....or warning.....those familiar with Wind River summits will expect a flat south-facing football field. Not so; it summit at dark, you probably won't want to because of the dangerous, steep bowl of flying saucers. Assuming you brought headlamps as bright as a car headlight (or two), you should avoid summit-iris and gingerly move west along an exposed ridge (can be seen in the photo but the pic can fool you; the first hundreds of yards in the dark will make you wish you got an earlier start. If windy and crappy weather, strong recommendation about trying to retreat down one of the two main couloirs....some of the rappels are likely to be very overhung & loose rock...just a guess. Do it...will remember it forever. Aug 26, 2015

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