Jay Conway getting something back on the bad kneebar rest of Parallel Universe with Jay Knower on belay.
ID 106073133

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Ladd
Dec 2, 2007
Jay Conway getting something back on the bad kneebar rest of Parallel Universe with Jay Knower on belay.
S. Neoh  
This is a demanding route for both climber and belayer. I belayed Zeb once on it and I was simultaneously concerned about keeping him off the deck if he falls and not able to feed him slack fast enough for the fast clips he needed to do. I found walking toward and away from the low directional bolt instrumental in maintaining just the right amount of slack in the rope.
As for using a Gri-Gri, like Mark, I keep my thumb and index finger of my break hand around the rope at all times while using my palm to apply light pressure on the camming half of the device to prevent the rope from jamming. I happen to think holding down the camming half with one's thumb (as is commonly done) is not correct. Feb 1, 2012
James Otey   NH
The newer method of belaying with a GriGri is far superior IMO. It seems silly to pinch the brake end of the rope with just my thumb and index finger when I can have all 4 fingers wrapped around the rope during fast slack payouts.

The old method can be done safely, but the thumb method is just plain better. More force on the break strand. Mar 10, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yup... Mar 11, 2012

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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
jason conway
Unknown Hometown