contemplating and concentrating

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > River Rd > Anasazi Buttress > Artist Tears (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3)

contemplating and concentrating

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More great pro.

Bitchin krukonogi hook

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4.5 from 8 votes

Luke Malatesta

Nov 20, 2007

“contemplating and concentrating”

1 Comment

Nearby Photos

Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Todd Gordon comfortable at the belay. Todd Gordon Collection.

more protection... so what were the bad pieces like? You will just have to go do the route to really know.

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

More great pro.

contemplating and concentrating

Bitchin krukonogi hook

Some excellent "fixed gear" on the crux pitch.

different view of the same piece.

Looking down the "crux" pitch

Our Findings

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

ripped scream aid, I'm suprised the nut held. Good thing as I stopped just above Eric at the belay.

Greg Epperson on pitch 1.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.

More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

Artist Tears

The goods

Sweet another successful lasso! This way I didn't have to risk a factor 2 onto the drilled angle anchor.

Beauty

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

Nice tricam

Looking down pitch 4

from near the top on the way back down.

looking down from the top.

looking down from the belay on top of P3.

C.B. Gettin' it done on P3 of Arist Tears

How they spotted this line in the black streak is beyond me.

Eric higher up P4.

Eric on pitch 4, skipping most of the studs and placing natural clean gear for pro. alot of them are angled downward.

it wasn't easy getting to here but I was pretty happy to be top stepping on a small nut to clip the first bolt in the bolt ladder above.

Pitch 2

Pitch 1

The final real pitch...this pitch is the longest, steepest and most casual.

Artist's Tears. Photo: Todd Gordon

NOT COOL! Maybe scratching a name (like the routes name) on a first isn't so bad but it's not ok for everyone to do it there after, like bragging rights, there was someone in 03. next thing you know it looks like a chalk board.

this was set up above the first 2 pins, and below the nut that caught me. I figured it might keep from crashing into helpless eric below.

Eric on the lead.

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