Looking down the "crux" pitch

All Locations > Utah > Moab Area > River Road > Anasazi Buttress > Artist Tears (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3)

Looking down the "crux" pitch

ID 106065904 ·

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Our Findings

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

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4.5 from 2 votes

Luke Malatesta

Nov 19, 2007

“Looking down the "crux" pitch”

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Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

contemplating and concentrating

Some excellent "fixed gear" on the crux pitch.

Todd Gordon comfortable at the belay. Todd Gordon Collection.

More great pro.

more protection... so what were the bad pieces like? You will just have to go do the route to really know.

different view of the same piece.

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

Artist Tears

Our Findings

Looking down the "crux" pitch

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

Looking down pitch 4

Artist's Tears. Photo: Todd Gordon

More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

C.B. Gettin' it done on P3 of Arist Tears

Hooking the next scar off the pitch 1 belay. scar = huge freaking sandy shallow blown-out fist-sized bottomless hole. Excellent route-finding skills!

ripped scream aid, I'm suprised the nut held. Good thing as I stopped just above Eric at the belay.

this was set up above the first 2 pins, and below the nut that caught me. I figured it might keep from crashing into helpless eric below.

Pitch 1

looking down from the top.

The final real pitch...this pitch is the longest, steepest and most casual.

Eric higher up P4.

it wasn't easy getting to here but I was pretty happy to be top stepping on a small nut to clip the first bolt in the bolt ladder above.

Eric on pitch 4, skipping most of the studs and placing natural clean gear for pro. alot of them are angled downward.

How they spotted this line in the black streak is beyond me.

NOT COOL! Maybe scratching a name (like the routes name) on a first isn't so bad but it's not ok for everyone to do it there after, like bragging rights, there was someone in 03. next thing you know it looks like a chalk board.

Eric on the lead.

looking down from the belay on top of P3.

Sweet another successful lasso! This way I didn't have to risk a factor 2 onto the drilled angle anchor.

from near the top on the way back down.

Greg Epperson on pitch 1.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.