Pennie Schwalm entering the dihedral on the first pitch.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower E Face > Kor's Door (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Pennie Schwalm entering the dihedral on the first pitch.

ID 106055120 ·

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Mike Amato below the big snowfield on Broadway. Photo taken on 8/1/04. This snowfield lies below the Windows/Obelisk routes, and blocks access from the top of Kor's Door over to the Crack of Delight rappels.<br>
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Red dots show our route. Most of this section was wet and loose. Just after a short downclimb on the snow (not too difficult, but icy at the bottom) was a particularly slippery, loose and dangerous section marked by yellow dots.<br>
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Mike soloed this, and had a mini-avalanche let loose under one of his feet. He got across safely and then belayed me over.<br>
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Traversing from the top of Kor's Door to the Crack of Delight rappels is NOT recommended: too many wet, loose, and dangerous spots (most with no anchors to belay) in addition to the one shown in the photo.

Tom Gries on Kor's Door in 1974; possibly the first free ascent. Approaching the first roof, pitch 1.

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4.0 from 3 votes

Bosier Parsons

Nov 3, 2007

“Pennie Schwalm entering the dihedral on the first pitch.”

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Nearby Photos

Third pitch of Kor's Door; Tom Gries on the FFA in 1974.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

Mike Amato nearing the top of the second pitch, with Lambs Slide and Mills Glacier below.

A photo overlay for Kor's Door.

The big picture, showing the approach, climb, and descent.<br>
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Green dots: the approach to the foot of Lambs Slide from Chasm Lake.<br>
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Cyan dots: the approach to Kor's Door from the foot of Lamb's Slide.<br>
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Yellow dots: the belays on the Kor's Door climb.<br>
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Red dots: the traverse of Broadway to the Crack of Delight rappels (not recommended).<br>
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Magenta dots: the Crack of Delight rappels.<br>
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Blue dots: the descent back to the foot of Lamb's Slide.

Mike Amato below the big snowfield on Broadway. Photo taken on 8/1/04. This snowfield lies below the Windows/Obelisk routes, and blocks access from the top of Kor's Door over to the Crack of Delight rappels.<br>
<br>
Red dots show our route. Most of this section was wet and loose. Just after a short downclimb on the snow (not too difficult, but icy at the bottom) was a particularly slippery, loose and dangerous section marked by yellow dots.<br>
<br>
Mike soloed this, and had a mini-avalanche let loose under one of his feet. He got across safely and then belayed me over.<br>
<br>
Traversing from the top of Kor's Door to the Crack of Delight rappels is NOT recommended: too many wet, loose, and dangerous spots (most with no anchors to belay) in addition to the one shown in the photo.

Pennie Schwalm entering the dihedral on the first pitch.

Tom Gries on Kor's Door in 1974; possibly the first free ascent. Approaching the first roof, pitch 1.

Errett at the crux of pitch 2 in the description.

Christa grappling with the crux roof.

Kor's Door with the Hornsby Direct finish, the way Mike Amato and I climbed it on 8/1/04. The traverse right on the last pitch is appropriate only if you're continuing up Kiener's; otherwise head up and left to descend via Lambs Slide or the Alexander Direct rappels. See Stettner's Ledges for info on this descent.<br>
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From the end of our last pitch, we unroped and did a harrowing traverse right on Broadway to the Crack of Delight rappels; this is NOT recommended, as it is loose,<br>
wet and dangerous in many spots.

Kor's Door to the left just above Lamb's Slide.

The approach to Kor's Door from the foot of Lambs Slide. Photo taken 8/1/04. We stashed our extra gear here, and continued on carrying just what we were taking up the climb.<br>
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From here, it took us about 45 minutes to reach the start of the climb.<br>
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An ice axe was helpful, but not essential, for the initial snow section. My partner crossed the snow in his rock shoes, kicking toeholds, with no ice axe. I had rock shoes on as well, and was glad I had an ice axe. Next time, I'll wear my approach shoes!

Mike Amato below the start of the route. The prominent inset on the first pitch is directly above Mike. The start of the climb and the first three belays are shown by yellow dots.

Mike Amato turning the crux roof on the first pitch. Bomber hand jams and good footholds make the move 5.9- at most.

Tommy about to polish off our brief version of P1 (see comments) on Kor's Door.

Mike Amato starting up the thin right-facing 5.8 corner on the third pitch. It's easier than it looks, with good finger locks and stem holds.

The stalific Tim Gale leading pitch one past the spooky blocks & historic pins on 9/9/17. Powering the 55+ club.

Mike Amato at Chasm Lake on the hike in to Kor's Door. Photo taken 8/1/04. The start and end of Kor's Door are shown by yellow dots. The Notch Couloir is just to the right of our finish. The red dot shows the start of the Crack of Delight rappels (not recommended as a descent from Kor's Door due to wet, loose, and dangerous conditions traversing Broadway to the right of the Notch Couloir).<br>
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The finish shown is appropriate if you're continuing up Kiener's; alternate finishes which end up farther left are appropriate if you're descending via Lambs Slide or the Alexander's Direct rappels.

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