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Pitch #3 (I led) was run out.  We followed the group ahead of us who didn't like the dihedral/left-facing-crack for whatever reason (green line).  So, I went around to the right (red line) and was faced with steep slab (5.7) and ended up ~35' above my last gear placement below a shitty roof.  Finally got a #1 DMM Wallnut placed, so that I wouldn't plummet off that steep lichen covered slab.  Fun.
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J. Fox
Sep 21, 2007
Pitch #3 (I led) was run out. We followed the group ahead of us who didn't like the dihedral/left-facing-crack for whatever reason (green line). So, I went around to the right (red line) and was faced with steep slab (5.7) and ended up ~35' above my last gear placement below a shitty roof. Finally got a #1 DMM Wallnut placed, so that I wouldn't plummet off that steep lichen covered slab. Fun.  
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
I thought this dihedral (the green line) was harder than 5.7, perhaps 5.8 or harder given that there is so much slippery lichen. It is also difficult to protect between 1/2 way up the dihedral and the next crack system.

A MUCH easier alternative (better protected anyway) pitch would be to climb the dihedral to the left of the green line (not in the photo) and either continue with it or traversing back to join the routes shown (above the green line dihedral). Aug 13, 2008
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
Agreed about that dihedral. As I stepped from 3/4 of the way up the dihedral onto the face to the right, with shitty gear and a big runout ahead, I said out loud "5.7 my ass". That said, moving from that dihedral onto the face was easily the most fun climbing on the route. A bit licheny, but that made it more exciting. Jul 22, 2012

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