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mschlocker > Bolt_Replacement
The other half of this bolt is stuck at the base of Khazaddum, Mission Gorge. FIXE never marketed any 10mm bolts in the US, but from what I hear they sold hundreds if not thousands. The oversized bolt does not work out so well in a 3/8" hole in hard rock. Luckily the bolt was easy to snap off. Much easier than even a smaller diameter Powers bolt I bashed around as an experiment.<br> <br> I ruined a carbide drill trying to punch the remains into the hole. Some day this plug can be drilled out to open up the hole for the next generation.
ID 106026414 · · Copyright Violation?
Old bolts removed from Ramona Wall, Poway.
Bolt testing curves from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire. Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags. Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless.
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mschlocker
Sep 15, 2007
“The other half of this bolt is stuck at the base of Khazaddum, Mission Gorge. FIXE never marketed any 10mm bolts in the US, but from what I hear they sold hundreds if not thousands. The oversized bolt does not work out so well in a 3/8" hole in hard rock. Luckily the bolt was easy to snap off. Much easier than even a smaller diameter Powers bolt I bashed around as an experiment.

I ruined a carbide drill trying to punch the remains into the hole. Some day this plug can be drilled out to open up the hole for the next generation.”  

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Nearby Photos

Rawl / Powers replacement photo guide. Mickey Finn - Mission Gorge. Both lead bolts replaced 6/2007.<br> <br> Galvanic action did not seem to be a problem between carbon steel bolt and stainless hanger. In fact where they met is the only place the bolt was still a little shiny (shielded from water at interface). Good news since this seems to be common practice in a lot of areas such as Tahquitz.
Middle Finger anchor - Mission Gorge (replaced 3/2008). Patched holes will look even better once epoxy dries and light colored dust blows off.
Crack of Dust anchor. Note wear on ss carabiner.
An extraneous bolt removed (and not replaced) from Moby Dick, Santee Boulders. I was experimenting with my new tuning forks. #3 LA and #6 Bugaboo with 5/16" slots I milled in them. I could have used two more LAs to stack or a shim. I had to finish the job with a crow bar.
Rusty Underworld (Mission Gorge) Bolt. 6 years new carbon steel 1/2" Rawl/Powers bolt.
Tuning fork in action at Tahquitz
Bolt testing collage from bolt and hanger burned in 2003 Cedar Fire. Bolt is first lead bolt on Lone Star wall when entering Poway Crags. Bolt is Rawl 3/8" Carbon Steel (bolt is 5/16") and hanger is Metolius Stainless.<br> <br> Burned bolt and hanger very strong.
Trapeze Anchor, Mission Gorge. Replaced 2008.
TR bolts removed from Cornered, Mission Gorge (6/2007). The button head was actually the stronger of the two. You never know 'till you pull it.
Bolts from Your Lead, Mission Gorge. Note rust on crack on upper hanger. Indicates crack had been there a while. Replaced 8/2007.
Vise grip funkness for Power Bolt sleeve removal.<br> <br> Somebody in the forum mentioned threading the sleeve with a 3/8" tap and pulling it with a 3/8" bolt. If it works I think I was one upped with that idea.
3/8" Stainless Power Bolt torque experiment. 40-45 Ft*Lb was needed to break bolt.
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