Morning light on the ridge

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > N E Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Morning light on the ridge

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going up the crescent-bugaboo col, use the ramp depicted here. the rappel line is very close to climbers right. 4 60m rappels gets you to the ground.

Taking the 5.9 hand crack variation off the belay ledge to the left of the low 5th class chimney system. A good exit point, right, into the chimney system exists 50m. A 5.10 corner crack continues above, however it is dirty and the gear/hand holds peter out near the top. It is possible to traverse into the chimney system from the top of the 5.10 corner crack

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4.1 from 7 votes

John Bradford

Aug 18, 2007

“Morning light on the ridge”

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Nearby Photos

Les M absorbing the awesomeness of Bugaboo's NE Ridge, on approach. Photo: Avery Nelson

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Here's a good view looking up at the NE ridge

High on the ridge with Brenta Spire and Cobalt Lake in the background.<br>

Nearing South Summit

Heading to the belay station at the top of Pitch 3

Rapping off the top of Bugaboo spire after climbing the NE ridge.

Summit with the Howser Towers in the distance

Pitch 6 (5.8 crack variation to left of chimney).

Route Overlay for NE Ridge.

Route Overlay Approach to NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire.

going up the crescent-bugaboo col, use the ramp depicted here. the rappel line is very close to climbers right. 4 60m rappels gets you to the ground.

Morning light on the ridge

Taking the 5.9 hand crack variation off the belay ledge to the left of the low 5th class chimney system. A good exit point, right, into the chimney system exists 50m. A 5.10 corner crack continues above, however it is dirty and the gear/hand holds peter out near the top. It is possible to traverse into the chimney system from the top of the 5.10 corner crack

Route Overlay Summit Traverse Bugaboo Spire.

Alpine whale

Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP contributor Steven Lucarelli<br>
<br>
Blue dashes - Approach<br>
Blue squares - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Green line - Great Gendarme Rappel

The rappel from the Gendarme on the descent. Be sure to go left, then move underneath the overhanging blade of rock. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Bugaboo Spire NE ridge

Pitch 1.

Topping out on north summit with south summit and Howsers in the background.

At the south summit with the Howser Towers in the background. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Map for Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
contour interval: 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route Descent

Lovely granite on the NE ridge of Bugaboo.

Midway through the summit traverse to the descent of Bugaboo spire.

close up of ramp leading to the top of the bugaboo crescent col.

Francis follows on the fifth pitch of NE Ridge.

north summit on a smoky day

If there are too many parties on Northeast ridge and you need to bail you can repel down the Crescent bugaboo col. Here is a picture of the top anchor. There are four repels down to the glacier that can be done with the 60 m

on the traverse/descent

A shot of the approach to the 4th class rock to gain the ridge proper

Fred Batliner at the start of Pitch 3.

If you encounter a lineup at the base, at least you can enjoy a comfortable view of the sunrise over the mountains.

anchor at pitch three that you can bail from. 3 60m raps gets you to the ground.

Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the approach to the col.

Coming up pitch 3

Tony Tennessee rappels towards the Gendarme on the Kain Route during the descent. Snowpatch Spire behind.

Pitch 1

Pitch 7 (5.9 crack variation to left of chimney). This pitch got harder higher up, so we made a delicate traverse to the right back into the chimney system.

Pitch 3.

View on the way down

5.10 section to gain South summit after the traverse from North summit instead of rapelling

July 2006

Nearing the top of the route. Photo taken by Montana John

first and second pitches of the NE Ridge

Incredible exposure on the traverse from the north to south summit

John Fujii on Pitch 1.

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