Morning light on the ridge

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > N E Ridge (5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c)

Morning light on the ridge

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Nearing South Summit

Route Overlay Approach to NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire.

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John Bradford

Aug 18, 2007

“Morning light on the ridge”

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Nearby Photos

Les M absorbing the awesomeness of Bugaboo's NE Ridge, on approach. Photo: Avery Nelson

High on the ridge with Brenta Spire and Cobalt Lake in the background.<br>

Here's a good view looking up at the NE ridge

View on the way down

Heading to the belay station at the top of Pitch 3

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Rapping off the top of Bugaboo spire after climbing the NE ridge.

Pitch 6 (5.8 crack variation to left of chimney).

going up the crescent-bugaboo col, use the ramp depicted here. the rappel line is very close to climbers right. 4 60m rappels gets you to the ground.

Route Overlay for NE Ridge.

Bugaboo Spire NE ridge

Nearing South Summit

Morning light on the ridge

Route Overlay Approach to NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire.

Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP contributor Steven Lucarelli<br>
<br>
Blue dashes - Approach<br>
Blue squares - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Green line - Great Gendarme Rappel

Summit with the Howser Towers in the distance

The rappel from the Gendarme on the descent. Be sure to go left, then move underneath the overhanging blade of rock. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Pitch 1.

Lovely granite on the NE ridge of Bugaboo.

Topping out on north summit with south summit and Howsers in the background.

close up of ramp leading to the top of the bugaboo crescent col.

Route Overlay Summit Traverse Bugaboo Spire.

Taking the 5.9 hand crack variation off the belay ledge to the left of the low 5th class chimney system. A good exit point, right, into the chimney system exists 50m. A 5.10 corner crack continues above, however it is dirty and the gear/hand holds peter out near the top. It is possible to traverse into the chimney system from the top of the 5.10 corner crack

At the south summit with the Howser Towers in the background. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Midway through the summit traverse to the descent of Bugaboo spire.

Francis follows on the fifth pitch of NE Ridge.

Pitch 3.

on the traverse/descent

Map for Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire<br>
contour interval: 100 feet<br>
<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge<br>
Green - Kain Route Descent

Fred Batliner at the start of Pitch 3.

A shot of the approach to the 4th class rock to gain the ridge proper

If you encounter a lineup at the base, at least you can enjoy a comfortable view of the sunrise over the mountains.

Tony Tennessee rappels towards the Gendarme on the Kain Route during the descent. Snowpatch Spire behind.

Coming up pitch 3

first and second pitches of the NE Ridge

anchor at pitch three that you can bail from. 3 60m raps gets you to the ground.

July 2006

Pitch 1

Lisa Foster and Paul Kejla on the approach to the col.

Pitch 7 (5.9 crack variation to left of chimney). This pitch got harder higher up, so we made a delicate traverse to the right back into the chimney system.

If there are too many parties on Northeast ridge and you need to bail you can repel down the Crescent bugaboo col. Here is a picture of the top anchor. There are four repels down to the glacier that can be done with the 60 m

5.10 section to gain South summit after the traverse from North summit instead of rapelling

John Fujii on Pitch 1.