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Looking up the route.  The chimney start is out of the photo to the bottom-left.
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e Dixon
May 19, 2007
Looking up the route. The chimney start is out of the photo to the bottom-left.  
This photo shows an alternate direct start. Essentially, you just climb straight up the terrain shown in the foreground here, moving up and right of the triangle block with the dark shadow. It is 5.7 or easier. I didn't place any gear, and just jumped straight into the 5.11 crack with no rope drag. There is some loose stuff, but by no means dangerous or unmanageable. May 12, 2014

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