Face climbing up to the squeeze chimney (pitch 5).

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Face climbing up to the squeeze chimney (pitch 5).

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Looking down Pitch 1.

P7 is super friendly at the grade with ample features on the face to delight

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George Bell

May 3, 2007

“Face climbing up to the squeeze chimney (pitch 5).”

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Nearby Photos

Birthday Party and Honeycomb Chimney on the left side of the Community Pillar

Route Overlay: Honeycomb Chimney + Magic Triangle Decent.

A bomber #5 placement at the anchor at the top of Pitch 1. We used the #5 a few times on the route because we had lugged it up, but we never actually needed it (something smaller could always fit).

Cam in pocket protecting squeeze on Pitch 5.

The strange geometry of the crux flare.

Start of the Magic Triangle raps. 4 raps with a single 70.

OW goodness on P7

The first pitch. The route follows the obvious crack going up and then right.

The 4th pitch of Honeycomb Chimney

Approach: Hike up the canyon past the route. Head up the hill to the right of low red wall. Turn left and follow the trail above the white headwall to the start of the route.

Looking down Pitch 1.

Face climbing up to the squeeze chimney (pitch 5).

P7 is super friendly at the grade with ample features on the face to delight

The 3rd class traverse to base of Pitch 7 corner. You cannot see the Pitch 7 corner until you are right below it. If in doubt that you are looking at the corner, you are not there yet.

Looking west from top of summit. Can see Magic Triangle below, which is where the Magic Triangle raps start. We got a bit off route on the descent, but I think there is a bolted rap station somewhere on the ledge just below the summit.

Just below the squeeze chimney on Pitch 5 of the Honeycomb Chimney

Honeycomb Chimney, pitch 7

p4, the honeycomb chimney pitch

Ivy in the flared chimney part of p7

Brass Wall & vicinity from the route

Mescalito from the route

Starting Pitch 2.

more p7

Pitch 3: 3rd class to base of Honeycomb Chimney pitch.

Looking up the clean corner on pitch 7 of Honeycomb Chimney

On Pitch 6, traverse left on a ledge. This boulder is at the start of the ledge.

Looking down pitch 4.

$Pitch 8 climbs up a corner and then through a giant split boulder to the top of the fractured summit.$

About to enter "the business" on the crux pitch.

the death block traverse from the top out

This summit is the top of the route. In the background is Bridge Mountain. If you climb this summit, you can see it is not easy to get down this side. The best exit is actually to traverse the rubble strewn ledge directly above Todd. The descent is directly behind me.

the Olive Oil saddle (if you're using the walk-off descent from MP)

Leading the first pitch.

In This Photo

Todd Pett

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