I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Jasper NP > Mt Edith Cavell > N Face - Chouinard/Be… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow)

I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.

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Bill Wright, master of the mush ...

Crossing the bergschrund while listening apprehensively for the whistle of rock fall.

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4.6 from 5 votes

George Bell

Apr 5, 2007

“I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.”

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Nearby Photos

Cool view looking down the summit snowfield. I was psyched here because by digging through the mush I was able to belay from two bomber ice screws.

The route takes the buttress in the center of the face.

Bill Wright, master of the mush ...

I remember the move off this foothold as one of the scariest moments of the climb (and I was belaying!). Bill climbing wet slimy rock protected by this knifeblade.

Crossing the bergschrund while listening apprehensively for the whistle of rock fall.

Nearing the top of the rock section in deteriorating conditions.

The route followed by us (your mileage may vary)

N. Face approach topo

Happy times on the crux buttress, above most of the rock fall.

Next morning crossing on the Angel Glacier. The route diagonals up and right from the top of Bill's head.

The waterfall on the steep buttress that must be climbed to reach the Angel Glacier. We climbed the rock on the far left side of this photo.

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Bill Wright

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