Summit Party...

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Summit Party...

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Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

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4.3 from 16 votes

John Gunnels

Mar 11, 2007

“Summit Party...”

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Nearby Photos

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Summit Party...

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

In the business! Mid "Jump"

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

Enjoying the summit scenery

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

Durrance

1974 on the Durrance ( then rated 5.6) with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Huebner

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

A night rap off the tower.
<br>

<br>
Climber: Logan Dop

Joe about to enter the wide of the spectacular Durrance.

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Embracing the thick on Durrance

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Dylan Hird making the jump. Only way to really climb this route right

looking down the durance. keith on the right

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

A perfect day on Durrance. Wide eyed and stoked!

the rap down after durrance seen on right edge of photo

"No climbing above this point"

top of pitch 4

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

The belay station for the Durrance pitch

Austin Lipe leading the leaning column seen from the belay.

Cussin crack, flake crack, & the start of the chockstone chimney

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

1,2,3, JUMP!

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

Leading up the Durrance crack

coming down

My good friend having on Durrance

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

Cussin

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

at the first anchors<br>

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Friday, September 13th, Harvest Moon.

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Chockstone crack

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