Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Sister Superior… > Jah Man (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.

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Darren "sport-climbing" on the last pitch.<br>
<br>
Beta: You can see the old star-drive bolts and the drilled pin. The drilled pin seemed "good" by desert standards and is clippable from the stance. It is the best bolt on the pitch, and it protects the crux move. The rest of them seemed only good for holding a quick draw.

Summit bolt

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Sergio P

Nov 1, 2006

“Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.”

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Nearby Photos

Getting close to Sister Superior, looking back toward Parriot and the Nuns? Gorgeous.

Sister Superior

There are good belays and there are good belays...

great day for a kite

Third pitch.

Top of the spire, ma!

3rd pitch.

Summit shot with Castleton and the Rectory in the background.

josh toasting some buns on the summit.<br>
he made a promise to everyone that his ass would be tanner than our faces by the end of the trip, and he kept his word.

Rapping the anchors to the right.

Sister Superior showing Jah Man

rapping down jah man. easily done in 3 raps with a 70m

The new Jah Man Route after first pitch fell off last week.

Finally above the fog into blinding sunshine. Castle Valley shows its beauty.

Route topo for Jah Man.<br>
<br>
A 70m makes it from the top of the chimney to the ground with room to spare.

George Armstrong on Jah Man.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon Mon.

Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!

on top

birds

Hiking up the approach trail. You can see the whole route in this photo.

Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitch of Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?)

Tim Foulkes replacing a 1/4 inch bolt on the last pitch of Jah Man. Somebody buy that guy a dank soda!

Thin hands

Steve Tweito coming up pitch 4. Nice view of the ridge running to Castleton.

About to go for the approach!

Darren "sport-climbing" on the last pitch.<br>
<br>
Beta: You can see the old star-drive bolts and the drilled pin. The drilled pin seemed "good" by desert standards and is clippable from the stance. It is the best bolt on the pitch, and it protects the crux move. The rest of them seemed only good for holding a quick draw.

Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.

Summit bolt

Brad, Travis and John on the summit.

'mornin' Sista

Jah Man<br>

Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off the ground

The Squeeze.

The Reverie and Castleton Tower from the base of Jah Man.

Matt traverses left on the tricky crux of Jah Man.

Yours truly rocking the Casbah on the sister squeeze.

Hell of an approach, but the climb was bone dry. I am seen here fighting the windburn with all of my might.

Jah Man

Chino Parada on P3

the plaque at the base of Jah Man

Angela Van Stein taping up for our summer ascent

Tristan Hechtel leading the great hand crack on pitch 4

Happy to be on top

Pointing towards Arches NP, 1997.

Before and After the flake on P1 fell.

P2 meets P3 (Gear anchor)

Its a looooooong slog up to the Sister.

WOOOOO

Tony Bubb near topping out high over the valley on Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?).

As of May 19, 2017 the summit anchors were pretty sketchy. The newest bolt pulls clear out of the rock. The old piton and ancient angle don't inspire confidence.

The Sister Squeeze pitch...

Justin King sending the 4th pitch.

Jah Man Base Clean Up:
<br>
Green Line: 5.10 (Original Initial moves to start)
<br>
Blue Line: TR'd @ 5.10+ (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
<br>
Black Line: TR'd @ 5.11+ (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
<br>
Yellow Line: TR'd @ 5.11
<br>
Red Line: TR'd @ 5.12

New P1

Peter Metcalf and I on the jaw-dropping top!

Summit of Jah Man.

Nobody on the route - Suzette and dad on a killer classic climb.

Jah Man<br>
Photo by Aerili

TJ on pitch 3

Coming out of the chimney