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All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (k) Sunshine Face > Sunshine Face -… > Sundance (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)
A sling on this chicken head provides a bit of security but the upcoming moves are up and left which would probably pull it off. A few similiar balancy mantle/high step moves continue up the wall past 3 bolts.
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Although it's quite easy up there, the wind blowing from the right made it a little spooky. It's probably 15-20' up to the anchors from there.
One more move to get the jug top and onto Log Ledge. The second pitch can be seen above with a crux being a couple of crimp moves off the ledge, then up and right the large chicken head. Up past 3 bolts and then a delicate traverse right to the bottom of the left facing corner. You step right on the face just right of the corner and continue up a long way with no pro to the achors.
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Paul Rezucha
Jun 6, 2006
“A sling on this chicken head provides a bit of security but the upcoming moves are up and left which would probably pull it off. A few similiar balancy mantle/high step moves continue up the wall past 3 bolts.”  

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Casey Van Gelderen on pitch 2
It's called the sunshine face for a reason
Some fun, balancy moves with wind being quite gusty, made for some interesting climbing!
It's quite a ways from the last bolt when you finally reach the corner. And of course the hardest, thinnest, scariest moves are right at the end!
Another bolt up and then the thin, delicate traverse right to the corner.
You decide if the #4 will work instead.
Pinching and liebacking a bit on the sloping dike was insecure in places but what a great place to be!
Paul contemplating which way to go. The Sundance finish goes up past the black streak and into a tiny crack system which looked tricky to protect and quite run out. The left dike system (Sundike) looked much more interesting and fun.
Although it's quite easy up there, the wind blowing from the right made it a little spooky. It's probably 15-20' up to the anchors from there.
A sling on this chicken head provides a bit of security but the upcoming moves are up and left which would probably pull it off. A few similiar balancy mantle/high step moves continue up the wall past 3 bolts.
One more move to get the jug top and onto Log Ledge. The second pitch can be seen above with a crux being a couple of crimp moves off the ledge, then up and right the large chicken head. Up past 3 bolts and then a delicate traverse right to the bottom of the left facing corner. You step right on the face just right of the corner and continue up a long way with no pro to the achors.
Ivan approaching the crux lieback corner at the end of the first pitch. As suggested, a 4 1/2 cam would nicely protect this corner. We didn't have anything large so smaller gear below made for an exciting lieback!

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Paul Rezucha
Alameda
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