5.9 pitch before the traverse.

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5.9 pitch before the traverse.

ID 105822306 ·

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Mark Roth leading the fouth pitch Dihedral and doing it "casually".

Climbers on The Diamond.

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phil wortmann

May 8, 2006

“5.9 pitch before the traverse.”

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A pair of climbers on the 5.9 finger crack (P2) and the 5.7 traverse (P3). These pitches are easily linked with a 60M rope. Linking these pitches will save time, and reduce the wait for climbers behind you.

Climbers on The Diamond.

Look how beautiful she is over there- safely holding my rope with precise care. There is no doubt that if I come off on this slippery traverse, she's got me. That belayer chick in the background behind my Camalot is pretty OK too.

Best 5.8 corner in the Park....<br>
<br>
I highly recommend linking the next two pitches in a 195 foot lead to the Yellow Bivy Ledge.

Rapping off the Casual Route in a late June snowstorm.

Climbers on Casual Route, Yellow Wall, Black Dagger, and Soma.<br>

Panorama from the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge.

Trevor Nydam looking down the D1 pillar.

Sunrise on the Diamond.

Josh in a Sea of Granite on the 2nd pitch of Casual Route

Darth Vader on the Bivy Ledge.

John Carter ascends the Casual Route, July 23, 2011.<br>
Josh Wharton is seen at right, ticking the FFA of Dunn-Westbay. <br>
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.

Looking over the valley and my custom-fitted shoes.

Half way up the Casual Route.

Luke Taylor chillin' before the dihedral pitch.

Donny working it on the crux. Notice the fog in the background, its rising fast and we have 1 more pitch!

A route overlay of Pervertical Sanctuary & Casual Route.

Topo of the route.

The warm-up.

Father and son, John and Bob Siegrist on Eroica (5.12), seen from the Casual Route. John is leading.

Trevor Nydam starting into the crux moves

Looking down the initial 5.9 pitch.

Sandy at the hanging belay after the traverse pitch. The picture is taken from Pervertical Sanctuary.

The Diamond as seen from Chasm View.

Eric Everson on the Table Ledge traverse at the top of the Casual Route on the Diamond.

Pulling through the crux....

As seen from high on Directissima.<br>
The route climbs a crack at the center of the photo up to the right side of the curving gray slab. Then way left to the left of the two right facing corners. A crack above that leads to Table Ledge at the top left of the photo.

Enjoying the view from the top of pitch 6.

Phil Wortmann on the top Table Ledge traverse on Casual Route. (about 2pm)

Gonzalo Cabeza on the Casual Route. Party seen below us.

Shane Leva coming up the Enduro-Corner.

An unknown climber leading the stellar dihedral.

Pitch 3 (after the first traverse) with the dihedral pitch visible above.

A picture taken atop the D1 pillar. From here, you can pretty much see the next 3 pitches of the route: continue up the 5.9 crack above, traverse left once you reach a fixed belay, and continue to a good stance 1 pitch below the 2 right-facing dihedrals.

The 5.fun traverse on P2/P3.

Cranking hard through the crux!!

Clouds gather... An odd rush of clouds create odd light on the Diamond. Mark Speiker on Table Ledge. Photo by Tony Bubb, 1997.

Gonzalo about to come into the crux.

I just got here!! Now we climb what!?! That big rock over there!?! Good morning wilderness!!

Fran nearing the end of the 5.7 traverse.

Panorama from Table Ledge. We were the only party on the Casual that day, one other party on Pervertical and that was it for the whole Diamond. Super weather!

Max sewing up the last traverse pitch to Table Ledge

Early morning light on the Diamond.

Shane Glazier anchored in.

The 10a crux, it's super short. Crank down, keep moving, and you'll be good.

Party ahead of us, just finishing the Table Ledge traverse.

Mark near the end of the first pitch.

There are a few fixed pieces of gear at this point in THE traverse. If you traverse too low, you'll miss the gear.

A big "Thumb's Up" a little ways up the Great Dihedral pitches.

Heading up the North Chimney, behind a couple of parties....

Looking up the squeeze.

Jenny on the Cas'.

Excited to make the summit despite severe weather warnings....

Douglas finishing the crux moves. You can see other parties on the glacier below.

Casual Route.

Belaying at pitch 4.

The end of the first traverse. The North Chimney is visible below as well as a pair of climbers on Broadway preparing to start the D1 Pillar.

Hanging Belay after the traverse.

Following the 'mushroom' pitch on an early season ascent of The Casual Route. Photo by Andy Grauch, 6-18-11.

Mark Roth leading the fouth pitch Dihedral and doing it "casually".