The slopes leading up to W. Gully often are loaded with avi danger. Hug the side to avoid trouble! Going far climbers' right from the top would be the most dangerous descent option due to avi conditions. Rappel the route on v-threads to avoid avi risk.

All Locations > Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > RMNP - Mixed/Ice > Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Glacier Creek D… > Black Lake - W Gully (WI3-4)

The slopes leading up to W. Gully often are loaded with avi danger. Hug the side to avoid trouble! Going far climbers' right from the top would be the most dangerous descent option due to avi conditions. Rappel the route on v-threads to avoid avi risk.

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West Gully on 12/24/03.

Richard Rossiter starting the first pitch of the West Gully, 1977. Photo by Tim Hogan. The gear is novel: Galibier leather boots, hinged crampons, wool knickers, Dachstein mits, home-made sit harness and rucksack, oval carabiners on 1-inch webbing, Stubai solid ice screws, Forest Mjolner (ice hammer), Rooster Head axe (right hand), Ultimate climbing helmet, et cetera. This is not an actual climber of course, but a manikin in a glass case, at the Smithsonian.

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4.8 from 15 votes

Eli Helmuth

Mar 22, 2006

“The slopes leading up to W. Gully often are loaded with avi danger. Hug the side to avoid trouble! Going far climbers' right from the top would be the most dangerous descent option due to avi conditions. Rappel the route on v-threads to avoid avi risk.”

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The slopes leading up to W. Gully often are loaded with avi danger. Hug the side to avoid trouble! Going far climbers' right from the top would be the most dangerous descent option due to avi conditions. Rappel the route on v-threads to avoid avi risk.

Richard Rossiter starting the first pitch of the West Gully, 1977. Photo by Tim Hogan. The gear is novel: Galibier leather boots, hinged crampons, wool knickers, Dachstein mits, home-made sit harness and rucksack, oval carabiners on 1-inch webbing, Stubai solid ice screws, Forest Mjolner (ice hammer), Rooster Head axe (right hand), Ultimate climbing helmet, et cetera. This is not an actual climber of course, but a manikin in a glass case, at the Smithsonian.

West Gully on 01/08/11.

Black Lake's West Gully on December 2, 2008. (Very good conditions.)

First two pitches of Black Lake's West Gully. <br>
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Picture by Kevin Cahill

Better photo of ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

Black Lake Gully. Well in November 25, 2007. Ice to the right also touching down. Picture by Christopher Perkins.

West Gully shot

Breaking trail all day. Beautiful.

Dan follows the enduro-slabs at the top of West Gully, November 16th, 2008.

close up of West Gully

West side of Longs showing Trough Couloir conditions.

Black Lake-condtiions 1/26/05

West Gully conditions 2/12/06.

Paul Crowder coming over the crux on P1.

Starting the third pitch.

Looking down pitch one. <br>

Lisa Foster approaching the first pitch.

West Gully on November 16th, 2008.

If there is such a thing as great WI2, the second pitch (with 70s) is it!

First pitches of West Gully, November 16th, 2008.

Ice conditions on west side of Black Lake, RMNP, Dec 4, 2004

Nice shot of McHenry's in '04. For those in need of a long day, shoot up the West Gully and top out on McHenry's.

Guillaume Frechette on the way up to the lower angled first pitch of the West Gully.

West Gully and McHenry's taken on Feb 25, 2006

Sean Burke rapping off. We exited after two pitches, because we were losing light. We hiked out by headlamps. 14.4 miles roundtrip from here.

West Gully on 12/24/03.

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