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The runout section on the first pitch...
ID 105798303 ·

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Guy H.
Feb 18, 2006
The runout section on the first pitch...  
Gordy Ainsleigh
Auburn, California
Gordy Ainsleigh   Auburn, California
How is it that the first ascender OWNS that piece of PUBLIC LAND and gets to dictate risk of life, death and great bodily damage for all who want to use it later? For instance, the Bachar-Yerian route in Yosemite is deliberately designed to prohibit those who are not as willing to die as the late John Bachar was (who, of course, died climbing). A more equalitarian approach, and one that acknowledges that we all communally own and have equal right to enjoy every piece of rock in every tract of land that is under government ownership, would be for us to agree on an easily-recognizable shape and/or color of protection that could be added to strategic locations on great-bodily-injury runouts. Clipping, or not clipping, into those clearly-differentiated protection features would separate those climbing the "classic" variation from those climbing the "safety-enhanced" variation. This protocol would allow all climbers to have what they want. Those who delight in the excitement, ego stoke and risk of permanent disability could climb the classic R/X route by passing over the designated feature that establishes enhanced safety, and go for the thrill, bragging rights and crippled/dead-hero potential; meanwhile the callow majority who value their life, physical function and climbing career could clip in and limit their risk to injuries that heal. Jul 30, 2017
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
A safer alternative sport would be bowling, golf, or underwater knitting.

Climb a different route if it doesn't meet your standards. Jul 31, 2017
Jackson Yip
San Jose, CA
Jackson Yip   San Jose, CA
Just because this conversation on this photo made this run out move to be at least 5.9 (it's 5.6), I want to at least set some people's minds to ease. Yes this is a run out, as Sierra climbing tends to have, but that being said, this move is less than overhanging with good feet and dikes to hold onto (like rungs of a ladder) until you arrive at the next seam. Try some of the other amazing climbs at this grade in the area to get some less committing run out experience, then try this. If you're climbing 5.7 in Yosemite, you're going to be in for a real pleasant surprise. All told, the fall would likely pendulum and yes you likely will deck if you don't bail back down closer to the last piece. That being said, yes runouts are dangerous, but so is finagling for pieces when you're not confident to begin with, choose your poison, the antidote for both is experience which brings confidence. Be smart, be safe, and if you're scared, just back down, or just keep moving, staying stationary will end in a larger, scarier fall. Aug 15, 2017

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