Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

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1,2,3, JUMP!

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

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3.7 from 3 votes

Alan Searcy

Jan 26, 2006

“Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.”

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Nearby Photos

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

In the business! Mid "Jump"

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

Summit Party...

Enjoying the summit scenery

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

Durrance

1974 on the Durrance ( then rated 5.6) with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

A night rap off the tower.
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Climber: Logan Dop

Joe about to enter the wide of the spectacular Durrance.

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Dylan Hird making the jump. Only way to really climb this route right

looking down the durance. keith on the right

The belay station for the Durrance pitch

Austin Lipe leading the leaning column seen from the belay.

the rap down after durrance seen on right edge of photo

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

top of pitch 4

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

Cussin crack, flake crack, & the start of the chockstone chimney

Embracing the thick on Durrance

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

1,2,3, JUMP!

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

My good friend having on Durrance

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

coming down

Leading up the Durrance crack

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

Cussin

at the first anchors<br>

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

Friday, September 13th, Harvest Moon.

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Bob Lewis starts up P1 on Durrance

Durrance

Here's Jenny Antin starting the the wide step-across section. It's 5.7 climbing here. The #5 is not mandatory, but sure nice to have here.