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Suggested Page Improvements to V-3


The "type" field should indicate that this climb is more than one pitch.

SethG
Sep 10, 2019
Description Suggestion
Here I am describing pitches two and three:

Pitch 2: This pitch is easy but fun. There is a right facing corner system above the bolted anchor. Follow this system straight up to the GT Ledge. It is a long pitch. At some point in the middle you naturally step to the right of the corner. There is some hollow rock here, easily avoided, and then you step back left and continue. I also remember having to push past a bush at some point but overall the pitch is clean enough and the rock is good. Just before the GT Ledge the rock is cleaner if you move left and up to the ledge. 5.1, 160 feet.

Pitch 3. A short pitch with an entertaining roof. There is a blocky corner system to your left which arches up to a roof. Move just a few steps to your left and head up the face, meeting the corner system just a couple of feet below the roof. There is good gear at the top of the corner and in a downward-facing slot in the underside of the ceiling. Pull over the roof just to the left of this slot-- as soon as you pull into the roof there is another horizontal for gear and jugs to get you over. Once you are over the roof the pitch is done. 5.8, 30 feet.

I combined pitches two and three, and the drag was nonexistent until I got over the roof-- and then it was all over and done anyway.

Descent:

Pitch one ends at a bolted anchor. If you continue to the top there is no fixed rappel back to the bolted anchor atop pitch one. You need to do the easy scramble up the slab to the true top of the cliff and then go north or south. We went south and descended using the Madame G rap, which is pretty close by but isn't the easiest rappel route to find, since you have to kind of know what you are looking for and descend a bit to the buttress. Going north, the Arrow descent route is the closest good option. It is quite a bit further away than Madame G but it is much easier to locate, since when you follow the clifftop trail you eventually emerge on some open slabs and can look over to see the chains. The first set of chains you can see over the edge is the Limelight/Three Doves set, but don't go down here-- this would be a very exposed and dangerous step down. Instead keep going just a bit further until you pass the Arrow chains. There is an easy and unexposed step down to the level of these chains, and then you can easily traverse the ten or fifteen feet back south to them.

[If these edits are accepted the overall grade of the route needs to be changed to 5.8.]

SethG
Sep 12, 2019
Description Suggestion
Sorry Julie, I should have said P2 was more like 120 feet, not 160.

And your edit of my P3 description has a grammatical error. The last sentence should start "Combining pitches two and three is reasonable...." instead of "You can combine pitches two and three is reasonable," which doesn't make sense.


Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1 (5.7, 80'): Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2 (5.1, 160'): This pitch is easy but fun. There is a right facing corner system above the bolted anchor. Follow this system straight up to the GT Ledge. It is a long pitch. At some point in the middle you naturally step to the right of the corner. There is some hollow rock here, easily avoided, and then you step back left and continue. I also remember having to push past a bush at some point but overall the pitch is clean enough and the rock is good. Just before the GT Ledge the rock is cleaner if you move left and up to the ledge.

P3 ( 5.8, 30'): A short pitch with an entertaining roof. There is a blocky corner system to your left which arches up to a roof. Move just a few steps to your left and head up the face, meeting the corner system just a couple of feet below the roof. There is good gear at the top of the corner and in a downward-facing slot in the underside of the ceiling. Pull over the roof just to the left of this slot-- as soon as you pull into the roof there is another horizontal for gear and jugs to get you over. Once you are over the roof, the pitch is done. You can combine pitches two and three is reasonable to do and the drag was nonexistent until I got over the roof-- and then it was all over and done anyway.

Descent: From the top, you'll need to do the easy scramble up the slab to the true top of the cliff and then go north to the Arrow rap line, where there's an easy step-down just past the bolts.  Or you can go south to the Madame G rappel, where you need to know landmarks, as you'll need to descend a bit to the bolts at the front of the buttress.