Pete Cleveland

We lost a legend this weekend. He climbed all over, but every long time Devils Lake Climber has stories about him. I remember the first time I met Pete. I was a teenager trying to bum belays on the East Bluffs and I saw an elderly gentleman in an old swami with attached leg loops doing laps on Gills Nose. (I couldn’t even do the moves on the first crux of that thing then) 

When I asked him about it, he gave me a move for move breakdown of the route and then expressed his disappointment at only doing 9 laps instead of 10 like he planned.

• A few weeks ago, after chatting with my S/O and I, he leaned towards me and goes “you know I always liked redheads, do you know any more?” Then he invited only one of us (not me) to cocktail hour at his house. Ha!
  
  Always good for a laugh. I’ll miss him 

I’ll never forget the first time I met Pete. I got held “conversationally hostage” over by Flatus and talked about (aka listened to Pete talk) everything from quantum physics to medicine to the cure for mental health problems (“Cleveland’s Theory of Remembering and Forgetting”). When he found out I was a physical therapist, he paused and told me how I’ve got it right, focusing on how the body can heal itself and not relying on medicine and surgery.

Pete was a big inspiration for me as a new DL climber, like I’m sure he was for countless before me. His impact on the history of climbing in this country, and especially at DL cannot be understated. While I never knew him personally, the moments I interacted with him over the past few years left an indelible impression on me.

Rest easy, Pete.

Pete might have been the most unsung climber in American history.  I met him briefly when he first showed up at Devil's Lake in the mid-1960's, and he almost immediately set about raising the standards.  He deserved to be a legend, but he did his own thing and stayed far from the national limelight. RIP to one of the all-time greats of his generation.

Another of my climbing colleagues from long ago, gone. RIP old friend. Pete and I bouldered together and did a climb or two back in the 1960s. Mostly in the Needles of SD. I remember watching him work on Superpin, I think, as I belayed. Such a brilliant performer, calm while standing on nothing it seemed. Pete had both a PhD in chemistry and an MD.

So incredibly sad to hear. I, too, met Pete during the years we overlapped at Devil's Lake in the mid-60s, where he quickly, though equally modestly, established himself as the top performer in a scene ( small as it was) that included a number of very talented climbers. When I moved from Madison to Boston, I discovered that Cleveland's Climb, put up by Pete several years earlier, was the hardest route in Quincy Quarries ( then still unrepeated). In addition to being one of the top free climbers in the country ( though keeping himself well out of the limelight) of the '60s/'70s, he was also an extremely intelligent and accomplished person, and an all-around very nice guy.

As others have mentioned, there are few people who impacted climbing at Devils Lake (and beyond) more than Pete.

Pete could be found climbing at the lake nearly every weekend between April and November with the fuzziest rope you’d ever seen and his signature red “P” cap, which I just recently learned was a Philadelphia Phillies hat, I’d always assumed it was a big block “P” for Pete like the “S” on Superman’s cape.

Like many, I first met Pete climbing with the CMC. He offered up a belay on Weeping Wall. During the climb he got to chatting with another MD, recounting stories of delivering babies in farm houses. After finishing the climb it took a bit to get his attention away from the conversation, if you ever spoke to Pete you surely know how hard it was to wrap up a discussion with him! Back on the ground he offered his congratulations, and the added “not to deflate how you feel about this accomplishment, but this is the last route I ever soloed; last year on my 79th birthday”

Pete, to me, was the ultimate human form of the spirit of DL climbing: friendly, unassumingly tough, and doing it all for the drive of personal growth/accomplishment instead of widespread notoriety. 

I was only blessed enough to meet Pete Cleveland once last year on my first (and only) climbing trip to Devils Lake. I, being a student of climbing history, was thrilled to meet him and discuss some of his legendary climbs. I found him to be both fascinating and humble. Sad to hear of his death. RIP Dr. Cleveland.

Pete C. on the climb Peyote

John Gillwrote:

Another of my climbing colleagues from long ago, gone. RIP old friend. Pete and I bouldered together and did a climb or two back in the 1960s. Mostly in the Needles of SD. I remember watching him work on Superpin, I think, as I belayed. Such a brilliant performer, calm while standing on nothing it seemed. Pete had both a PhD in chemistry and an MD.

And like you, a pioneer of difficulty in out-of-the-way places. 1969's Bagatelle, 12d, was possibly the first roped climb of that grade in the country in 1969, and 1977's Phlogiston, 13a/b, was among the very few at that grade. Quibbles about TR versus leading are of no relevance given the state of climbing protection at the time and the prohibition of bolts at DL.

Peter Bealwrote:

And like you, a pioneer of difficulty in out-of-the-way places. 1969's Bagatelle, 12d, was possibly the first roped climb of that grade in the country in 1969, and 1977's Phlogiston, 13a/b, was among the very few at that grade. Quibbles about TR versus leading are of no relevance given the state of climbing protection at the time and the prohibition of bolts at DL.

Let's not forget the incredibly bold FA of Superpin in the SD Needles---for the last section he was so run-out ( and in the Needles, especially on an unclimbed route, a crucial 'nubbin' could 'pop' at any point), that his belayer dropped the rope and walked away---he couldn't do any good and didn't want to watch!!!

Pete wasn't only a top performer on short climbs. In 1966, he and fellow Midwesterner Don Storjohn teamed up to blitz most of the then hardest routes in the Tetons, several of them second ascents. This 'spree' culminated with the FA of the North Face of Crooked Thumb, a route notorious as the scene of a monster ( well over 100') fall by Chouinard during an attempt several years previously. At the time of the FA, and for quite a few years after, it was the hardest and most serious route in the Range, and one that, to my knowledge, still has rarely been repeated.

Heartbroken.
Sure will miss Pete.
Devils Lake just won't be the same without him. Always brought a smile to your face, and could unfailingly fill a walk up the CCC trail with delightful stories and personality.
We will miss you Pete.

(Pete pointing out the Timber Rattler in the rocks)

Last time I saw him I said "Pete, the Smithsonian called and they want that 'harness' back!"  He thought I was serious (which I was in a way), and so he started telling me all about how great the thing was.  It was some ancient Misty Mountain rig made out of rainbow striped webbing, like on a flip flop sandal from the 70s.  He and his pal were just cruising routes on the East Bluff that make me cry inside.

I am serious though.  His harness should be in a museum, in a place of honor.

I didn't know Pete well but the few times I ran into him he struck me as an incredibly genuine person with a real desire to connect with the people around him. I am grateful for our short hike down the East Bluff trail after a day of climbing. It isn't often that you get to meet one of your heros and also have them be as nice as Pete! RIP

Passing that "robin's egg" impossibly blue house of his on the way to DL just wont be the same anymore.  RIP Peter.

Always receptive to anyone around.  And he made a mark in the climbing community... Nice writeup here..

https://www.sdpb.org/rural-life-and-history/the-down-to-earth-rock-god

Pete's the one who really introduced me to outdoor climbing. Coming off a bouldering induced broken heel, I wanted to learn how to build anchors at Devil's Lake. After a weekend of flailing around not really knowing what we were doing, we ran into Pete who graciously offered (*demanded) that we climb on his ropes. I recall him explaining to us how his anchor was bomber because the single tree branch he had wrapped had survived even the harshest blizzards of the last century, and then somehow he got to explaining how the tuna population is booming again but the mackeral population is suffering. In fact, I've never stopped thinking about global fish populations since that day :) He then proceeded to sandbag me up an awfully thin 5.9 for my second day rope climbing at the Lake!

From there my Dad and I got involved with the CMC and shared plenty of additional conversations with Pete about anything and everything. The other that stands out to me is his self-proclaimed deadlift world record of the 60s and 70s. This is truly such a huge loss, and Pete will be dearly missed.

The week has been surreal to say the least, I am crushed by the news, Pete was friend & mentor to me and many DL climbers. Thanks to the Climbing heavy weights weighing in on MP! It shows how we all felt about Pete and anyone who understand the sport of Rock Climbing has a deep respect for his ability and strength. His Devil Lake & Needles FA's will remain in history books for as long as sport is practiced!

God Speed Brother!

David Groth

RIP Legend 

John Eberlewrote:

Pete's the one who really introduced me to outdoor climbing. Coming off a bouldering induced broken heel, I wanted to learn how to build anchors at Devil's Lake. After a weekend of flailing around not really knowing what we were doing, we ran into Pete who graciously offered (*demanded) that we climb on his ropes. I recall him explaining to us how his anchor was bomber because the single tree branch he had wrapped had survived even the harshest blizzards of the last century, and then somehow he got to explaining how the tuna population is booming again but the mackeral population is suffering. In fact, I've never stopped thinking about global fish populations since that day :) He then proceeded to sandbag me up an awfully thin 5.9 for my second day rope climbing at the Lake!

From there my Dad and I got involved with the CMC and shared plenty of additional conversations with Pete about anything and everything. The other that stands out to me is his self-proclaimed deadlift world record of the 60s and 70s. This is truly such a huge loss, and Pete will be dearly missed.

I am saddened by Pete's passing and disappointed to be missing his memorial this weekend. Please collect more Pete Cleveland firsts and world records for me! Something I adored about Pete was the dichotomy between his sometimes outlandish claims (the deadlift world record is a new one to me, but I was personally informed that he invented cognitive behavioral therapy) and the totally understated attitude towards his climbing feats (which I am more certain he actually accomplished lol). He was completely sui generis and a living connection to an era of climbing that is basically gone.

Rest in peace! The lake will not be the same.

Jacob Millerwrote:

I am saddened by Pete's passing and disappointed to be missing his memorial this weekend. Please collect more Pete Cleveland firsts and world records for me! Something I adored about Pete was the dichotomy between his sometimes outlandish claims (the deadlift world record is a new one to me, but I was personally informed that he invented cognitive behavioral therapy) and the totally understated attitude towards his climbing feats (which I am more certain he actually accomplished lol). He was completely sui generis and a living connection to an era of climbing that is basically gone.

Rest in peace! The lake will not be the same.

I had totally forgotten the claimed deadlift world record until this message! With all of Pete’s verified accomplishments in life, you could never truly rule out even his most far fetched claims from potentially being at least partially true

Thank you all for posting some photos and comments about my dad, Pete.  

I have posted about my dad on FB, today here: facebook.com/share/p/1JvPPY…

And for information about the memorial we will hold at the lake, please see here: https://www.facebook.com/share/1BbxG6ukiS/

- Dan Cleveland

I met Pete for the first time in the early 2000's.  I was blown away by how easy he made routes look and thinking to myself "this guy has mastered DL quartzite."  The last time I ran into him was last year up in the Tombstone area.  I was teaching an anchors clinic and he walked by with his son.  Of course I said "Hey Pete!" and we got sucked into a deep conversation about anchors, the beautiful weather, what routes I was working on, etc.  His son, you Dan, was anxious to keep moving and had to basically pull the cane out and pull Pete away.  

I was bouldering with friends this past Sunday up on the West Bluff.  As we drove past Pete's place that afternoon, I had an eerie feeling.  Can't explain it, I just did.  Then I get home, and saw right away Dave sharing the tragic news on social media.  

RIP Pete.  Your legacy will stand the test of time and climber of all generations will stand in awe of your masterpieces.