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The ultimate kit thread

Original Post
Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

I’ve been thinking about this, as my mind has turned to my favorite season (ice season). I thought I’d throw this question out there- 

What would your ultimate kit be for ice climbing and maybe add why?  This is everything from clothes and boots to packs, ropes, crampons, harnesses and tools.  The full kit.  If you could put together a perfect kit what would it be? I’m thinking for a day out, each day has different objectives so I’m thinking generally.  If I’m climbing in Maple Canyon there will be a lot more short to stubby screws compared to Hyalite Canyon.  This is a fun exercise, hope to learn from you and maybe  have a conversation as to what and why people carry and use what they do.  And yes I already know that your kit is the best…
Here’s my start… 

Clothing 

Smart wool light weight long underwear zip t top and bottoms
Extra light wool or synthetic top to hike in.
Mid weight darn tough wool full cushion socks

Rab Ascendor light hooded fleece 

Rab ascendor hooded fleece ( if it’s really cold)

Rab xenair light hooded jacket

Rab borealis soft shell jacket 

Patagonia M10 jacket 

Rab ascendor alpine pant 

Super light hard shell pant with zips if it’s really wet (haven’t figured this one out yet).

Either Rab Generator alpine (synthetic) or Rab mythic Ultra down jacket

Wool beanie OR Gradient or turtle fur ( has to be a fun color or pattern) 

Buff

Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro or if it is really cold Lowa Alpine Ice GTX (both of these fit my feet really well)

Gloves 

Mountain equipment super alpine glove 2 pair

Aniiu Vinson light

Aniiu Vinson short

Rab pivot goretex

Rab baltoro 

Hestra Ergo active grip gloves 

Black Diamond Subzero mittens (super cold weather) 

Osprey Mutant 38 Pack 

Camp Alpine Flash harness with 2 ice clippers and 2 OP Five-O biners for racking 

BD ATC guide with Camp Nimbus locking carabiner 

Dmm phantom with 5mm cord for backup 

Black Diamond vapor helmet

Grivel G 20 evo crampons or Camp Bladerunners 

Camp X Dreams 

Beal Joker 9.1mm x 70m 

Beal Escaper

Beal Ice line 8.1mm x 60m x 2 

Rack 

8-10 camp photon 10 cm quick draws 

6 alpine draws photons with mammut slings 

2 camp screamers with photons 

2 120cm mammut slings with a photon each 

1 180 cm mammut sling with camp nitro locker

1 20’ 7mm cordelette with nitro locker 

2 extra nitro lockers 

4 nano 22 carabiners 

2 7cm screws camp 

4-6 10 cm screws camp

6 13cm screws 4 camp 2 blue ice aluminum 

6 16 cm screws mix of 4 camp and 2 blue ice aluminum 

1 22 cm screw blue ice steel 

V thread tool  Petzl or the one my friend made me 30 years ago that I still have.

Single rack of C4 cams from .5-3

Metolius master cams 0-3

Set of dmm offset nuts

Set of BD nuts 5-11

Set of metolius brass nuts 5-10

Some pitons 4-5 blades and angles 

Black Diamond Carbon Alpine trekking Poles 

AMK .4 first aid kit

Petzl Actik headlamp

Benchmade mini bug out 

Granite gear small silicon zip sack (for food and snacks)

Stanley 1 liter thermos

Nalgene 1 liter bottle 

Safety/avalanche gear 

Barryvox beacon 

Carbon probe 

Voile mini shovel 

What is missing?  What would you do?

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Drop the 22 cm screw

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

You have great taste in tools, pons, ropes, pack but I didn't know it was possible to climb ice without wearing Showa TemRes 282-02s (oh no, here we go again...)

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Seems like you need an awful lot of shit to climb ice.. 

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700
Rexford Nesakwatch wrote:

You have great taste in tools, pons, ropes, pack but I didn't know it was possible to climb ice without wearing Showa TemRes 282-02s (oh no, here we go again...)

I have tried them and have 3 different sized pair in my glove bin. My hands get really cold wearing them. They’re good for taking off chains that are  muddy.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700
Mark Pilate wrote:

Drop the 22 cm screw

For me, I carry 1 22cm screw and a V thread tool inside of it for making threads to get off routes without fixed anchors.  What do you use?

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

I guess I could replace all my carabiners with DMM, I like photons.

Anyone else want to contribute with what they use or what they wish they used?  It would be awesome to see other peoples kits. Maybe it would help me rework mine.


I’ve been checked by MP so until more people chime in I can’t respond any more.  I’ve never had that happen before.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

 pair of Nomics or x dreams. teathers. Kinko driving gloves for climbing. EMS ascent gloves for getting warm in emergency.  one 10cm , one 13 cm, one 16 cm and one 22cm. blade runners, a coupple of slings and biners, 60m x 6mm Mamut rappel line . Old worn out paddagicci guide pants. army surpluse fleece bibs under that. old ems jacket. ems puffy, hyperlight 40L pack. extra gloves, chemical hand warmers.  more screws, draws and ropes if I have a partner. most of my 13s and longer are Blue ice. I have two camp 7cm for specific climbs. my 10s are old bd stainless steel and need to be replaced...

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Sunny-D wrote:

For me, I carry 1 22cm screw and a V thread tool inside of it for making threads to get off routes without fixed anchors.  What do you use?

I’ve tested A-threads to my own satisfaction to be comfy with using a 16.  

I’m with ya on the Rab jackets (I converted from the bird) and Hestra ergo gloves (pretty much all I wear 90% of time)

Can’t shake my love of Petzl Ange S biners/draws, Mammut rope addiction, and for me (fit great) the La Spo old G5 and G-Techs depending on temp

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I have a friend who says you can make threads with 10cm screws  but I prefer a 22 ovwer a 16 as it gives you many more options to find good ice. The reason my soloing kit gas a 22 and a 16 is because if I drop the 22 I can still thread with a 16 and vise versa. 

Grant Kleeves · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 60
Sunny-D wrote:

I’ve been thinking about this, as my mind has turned to my favorite season (ice season). I thought I’d throw this question out there- 

What would your ultimate kit be for ice climbing and maybe add why?  This is everything from clothes and boots to packs, ropes, crampons, harnesses and tools.  The full kit.  If you could put together a perfect kit what would it be? I’m thinking for a day out, each day has different objectives so I’m thinking generally.  If I’m climbing in Maple Canyon there will be a lot more short to stubby screws compared to Hyalite Canyon.  This is a fun exercise, hope to learn from you and maybe  have a conversation as to what and why people carry and use what they do.  And yes I already know that your kit is the best…
Here’s my start… What is missing?  What would you do?

you're not going wrong with a lot of this, my edits for most days out:

clothing/crampons/tools are mostly a personal preference, use what works

I prefer rolltop backpacks for most ice stuff, the mutant has a little too much going on

I like skinny ropes for Ice/alpine, Edelrid 7.1 half's or a Beal 8.9 single

I find quickdraws to be much more useful than alpine draws, I usually bring 2 alpines max, Blue Ice slings are the best I've found.

no idea why anyone would use all, or even mostly steel screws at this point, I have a mix of Petzl and Blue ice screws, maybe a Blue Ice steel in 13 and 16, other than that all aluminum, call it 4 13;s and 6 16's most days, throw in 10's as needed, one 22 for threads, I've rapped on plenty of 16 Cm. threads, sometimes its all good, lot's of the time I like a little more.

I find a J-Snare to be easier to deal with than a rigid threader

Soft bottles of whatever description are far better than nalgenes for cold weather use.

Jedrzej Jablonski · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

I find quickdraws to be much more useful than alpine draws, I usually bring 2 alpines max ...

That's interesting. I went to 60:40 ratio of regular quickdraws to alpine. Do you also only have 2 alpine when climbing on a single rope? I'm assuming you link pitches a lot and still no rope drag issues?

no idea why anyone would use all, or even mostly steel screws at this point

There are places / conditions when they bind up quite bad due to higher friction and heat conductivity. Imo steel screws still have their place. 

But why are people still using 16cm screws?? :)

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

16s  are good late season when the ice is fat and baked. Longer screw is going to have a better chance of holding in that crappy late season Styrofoam. I usually have 6 10cm 6 13s and a few 16s and a 22 for big climbs. 

Grant Watson · · Red Deer, AB · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 13

Lots of possible discussion points, but a good list.  Putting on my "safety police" hat that nobody asked for... I think these are the biggest things missing - since we're talking about the "full kit":

  1. InReach or similar comms device
  2. Avalanche gear (beacon, probe, and shovel)
  3. Bear spray (I know, it's winter, but there are still other predators, and with global warming and starvation, many bears are awake long before the ice is gone)

Also, I'd swap out the 5mm cord (5.5-ish kn) for 7mm (13-ish kn) and pay the weight and bulk penalty.  With that safety sidetrack behind us, please return to the regularly-scheduled fun discussion!

Spopepro O. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Grant Watson wrote:
  1. Bear spray (I know, it's winter, but there are still other predators, and with global warming and starvation, many bears are awake long before the ice is gone)

Curious about local knowledge on this one. When I visit Canmore I see lots of Nordic skiers with spray in Dec/Jan and always thought it a little overboard. When do you consider carrying spray in AB?

Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 26

I'm updating my ice kit so checking out what your kit has & other folks comments on their kits.  Have the mutant 38 pack for cragging days but switch over to my BD Speed 40 when carrying pack since it strips down well & carries nice.  Curious about your glove selection as that is one thing I need to replace this season.  Currently climb in BD gloves (terminator).  What are  your go to gloves for climbing in temps above 15 degrees?  

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
Ron C wrote:

....What are  your go to gloves for climbing in temps above 15 degrees?  

Hestra ergo grip series(10-25F)

Over 25F, thin liner under a batting glove

10F or colder, the above Hestra’s inside a BD trigger finger mitt shell with a shake and warm inside


only carry bear spray for the large out of town college groups in jeans and plastic boots that you sometimes encounter 

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

My all time favorite leading glove is the mountain equipment Super Alpine Glove. I know there are a lot of opinions and options out there but this one works for me in almost every condition and no it’s not water proof.  

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

In your ideal kit I would switch:
Rope: two 60 meters beal Gully for multipitches
Boots: Scarpa Phantom
Set of aluminium and steel ice screws from blue Ice, mostly 13 cms
Abalakov hook from Grivel (this one is a wee controvercial ;)
Patagonia R1 Pullover
I find the Leki Makalu (new version of my micro vario carbone) to be better poles than BD
Backpack wise I love my Exped Whiteout, it's waterproof and 30 liters is enough even for the longest days; I do the approach and climb with the same pack
For mitts the best I found for belaying and even rappels are the Hestra Army Leather GTX
For me the best lead gloves are the BD terminator
I like the Hestra Ergo active grip but the wool terry version for added wam
For a knife I take the one from Petzl anf I also have a Leatherman Crunch inside the pack for small repairs
Quickdraws, for ice I came to like the Petzl Ange, the longest version with the biggest draws
I m partial to Petzl Quarks and Nomics
For a "just in case" waterproof pants, I went with the Haglofs LIM III pants,

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I am mostly quick draws. No screamers In almost a decade. Whatever your v thread tool is it should be stiff enough to clean out a screw. 

Grant Watson · · Red Deer, AB · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 13
Spopepro O. wrote:

Curious about local knowledge on this one. When I visit Canmore I see lots of Nordic skiers with spray in Dec/Jan and always thought it a little overboard. When do you consider carrying spray in AB?

I'll always consider taking bear spray, and I usually take it.  Early or late season - for sure.  Somewhere a little more isolated - for sure.  The heavily trafficked ice crag 30 minutes from a major highway - maybe not, but it's probably already on my pack anyhow.  There have been cases of hikers stumbling over hibernating bears, and they don't actually hibernate (technically, it's torpor). 

I can certainly understand why skiers around Canmore would carry spray. I think more about cougars, which are active year-round. From what I've read, the first "snack" usually won't have a chance to use spray against a cougar, as they usually strike quickly and quietly from behind. However, I like the idea of having some defense against being dessert.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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