New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #31

Brad Young wrote:

Ok, brief change of topic. Here's a seasonal pop quiz. Engineer types are especially encouraged to respond:

What do you get when you divide the circumference of a jack o’lantern by its diameter?

Umm. Half a good shit?
My logic is that in the pumpkin middle there’s seeds. And apparently pumpkin seeds are good as a laxative. But if you’re dividing the circumference by half then it’s only going to be good for half of a good shit.  

John Gill wrote:

"Today, even if I’m successful, if it isn’t done smoothly it leaves me unsatisfied."    You nailed it, my friend.

Just watched one of the good climbers smoothly climb that V5 up and down. Definitely looked really good, but at the same time looked much more difficult.to do.

There’s a slab V5 next to it that definitely went easier smoothly.

It’s cool watching good climbers “styling” a difficult climb   

Li Hu wrote:

Just watched one of the good climbers smoothly climb that V5 up and down. Definitely looked really good, but at the same time looked much more difficult.to do.

There’s a slab V5 next to it that definitely went easier smoothly.

It’s cool watching good climbers “styling” a difficult climb   

Downclimbing is a really important skill. One often needs it just to GET to the climbs and also if a route gets too hard or there's other issues you can reverse it and retrieve your gear. I almost always downclimb when I boulder indoors, not always all the way to the start holds but almost always most of the way to the ground.

'Styling' a route as you call it is nice, it's a much nicer feeling than just getting up there any which way. I'll often climb a boulder or route but won't be satisfied really just at that; I'll repeat it until it feels really nice.  Also, trying to NOT match holds on a boulder problem (that you can climb with matching holds) really mixes things up...

My old climbing partner was a solid 12 climber.  Then he went on an endurance training spree.  And I don't mean doing a problem 3 or 4 times, I mean spending 2 hours non-stop on the wall.  In a year he was climbing 13s.  Now, he was strong as fuck to begin with, but the added endurance let him do routes that he previously couldn't.  Routes like Sacred Fire: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/122536421/sacred-fire

Also, I was good friends with Tony Y and he never lacked for power.  At 14 he was already stronger than almost everyone else.  But it was his increased endurance as he got older that let him do really hard routes.  Have you looked at Grand Illusion?  It takes endurance to get up that whole thing!

Please forgive me for getting drawn into and prolonging this conversation about training.  There are few things less fun than training for climbing.  One is talking about training for climbing.

But more fun is planning for climbing trips!  I'm excited for the Gunks weekend coming up.  I think R Gold you said you likely wouldn't climb, but would be around?  Anyone else?  

I'm planning to drive out from MA on Friday afternoon (with the family) - probably get dinner on the road.  I think we plan to cook at the campsite on Saturday, get dinner in New Paltz on Sunday.  We'll be staying at the Gunks AAC campground.  I'm thinking one day climbing at the Trapps, the other two maybe at Peterskill.  I'll have wife and daughter with me, so probably we'll stick to single pitch stuff, unless it's really easy and my daughter can climb it all.

Would love to meet up with any of you for climbs, meals, hanging out at the fire, whatever.  Never done one of these before, so not sure how best to coordinate.  

Cheers,

GO

I will be there Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, staying nearby. Would be great to climb, but at least a dinner somewhere, probably Sunday night, would be great.

Gabe, don’t apologize for talking about training! That’s really what we’re here to do. The more insight you all share, the better for all of us.    

It’s really humbling for me to chime in at all – – and yet I do almost every day. I write partly to find my way to what is meaningful to me. It helps to read along everyone’s own personal journeys.

I’ve had a real change of heart this summer, and I’m not sure exactly where it’s going. It’s along the lines of leading a more natural life and allowing this place to feed me and direct my climbing.  I especially watch the coyotes and how strong and healthy they are.  There are probably limits to what can be accomplished without a gym – – or without being young and out in it all day every day, but I’d like to find out.

Bob has said many times that the best way to train for a route is to get on the route.  I like that more and more. Outside climbing throws so many challenges, as I think Phylp mentioned before—but all the fine training for a particular rock is ON that rock.  Just descending down a boulder field requires such fine balance, and no two boulders are alike.  I remember reading that the nautilus equipment at the gym is lacking because it is the exact same repetitive movement over and over, but if you had to shift your body a few inches that would require a whole new training.  

I’ve become interested also in native medicine, plants, shelter, etc. I want  to take some local classes because I know that there is a cure for whatever ails a desert dweller growing all around. I probably tromp through miracle cures every day. There are probably great dietary remedies to cool the heat and combat dryness. So more and more my path is to learn how to do this naturally, and that includes climbing.

I want to be respectful of a 71 year old body. I don’t know if there are any real limits to what we can do if we hit the right notes. But I also know that we can completely overdo and the body does some payback.

Having said that, I was scrolling through some of Randy Leavitt’s videos and photographs on Instagram. At 62 he looks like a 30-year-old climber, which tells me that for most folks here the sky is still the limit.  

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Co7qCh9JhgE/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Lori Milas wrote:

Gabe, don’t apologize for talking about training! That’s really what we’re here to do. The more insight you all share, the better for all of us.    

It’s really humbling for me to chime in at all – – and yet I do almost every day. I write partly to find my way to what is meaningful to me. It helps to read along everyone’s own personal journeys.

Agree, and it’s inspiring reading about your adventures as well!

I’ve had a real change of heart this summer, and I’m not sure exactly where it’s going. It’s along the lines of leading a more natural life and allowing this place to feed me and direct my climbing.  I especially watch the coyotes and how strong and healthy they are.  There are probably limits to what can be accomplished without a gym – – or without being young and out in it all day every day, but I’d like to find out.

Bob has said many times that the best way to train for a route is to get on the route.  I like that more and more. Outside climbing throws so many challenges, as I think Phylp mentioned before—but all the fine training for a particular rock is ON that rock.  Just descending down a boulder field requires such fine balance, and no two boulders are alike.  I remember reading that the nautilus equipment at the gym is lacking because it is the exact same repetitive movement over and over, but if you had to shift your body a few inches that would require a whole new training.  

When I was young, all I did was climb. It’s really the best form of exercise, and living out there to enjoy Joshua Tree or Nature in general is perfect!

Hopefully, I’ll see you around this up coming season? I’ll try to go on  long day trips out there with one of my partners. We’ll likely setup top ropes as well as leads.

I’ve become interested also in native medicine, plants, shelter, etc. I want  to take some local classes because I know that there is a cure for whatever ails a desert dweller growing all around. I probably tromp through miracle cures every day. There are probably great dietary remedies to cool the heat and combat dryness. So more and more my path is to learn how to do this naturally, and that includes climbing.

Cool!

I want to be respectful of a 71 year old body. I don’t know if there are any real limits to what we can do if we hit the right notes. But I also know that we can completely overdo and the body does some payback.

Having said that, I was scrolling through some of Randy Leavitt’s videos and photographs on Instagram. At 62 he looks like a 30-year-old climber, which tells me that for most folks here the sky is still the limit.  

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Co7qCh9JhgE/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Another 62 year climber! Cool! That climb looks awesome! I could get into that area!

For now, back to the gym. 6 days a week climbing is enough for me. 4 easier and 2 harder days and a rest day.   

GabeO wrote:

Please forgive me for getting drawn into and prolonging this conversation about training.  There are few things less fun than training for climbing.  One is talking about training for climbing.

But more fun is planning for climbing trips!  I'm excited for the Gunks weekend coming up.  I think R Gold you said you likely wouldn't climb, but would be around?  Anyone else?  

I'm planning to drive out from MA on Friday afternoon (with the family) - probably get dinner on the road.  I think we plan to cook at the campsite on Saturday, get dinner in New Paltz on Sunday.  We'll be staying at the Gunks AAC campground.  I'm thinking one day climbing at the Trapps, the other two maybe at Peterskill.  I'll have wife and daughter with me, so probably we'll stick to single pitch stuff, unless it's really easy and my daughter can climb it all.

Would love to meet up with any of you for climbs, meals, hanging out at the fire, whatever.  Never done one of these before, so not sure how best to coordinate.  

Cheers,

GO

Making there this coming weekend is questionable for me.  Maybe Sunday for a brief time.

Al says he'll be around Monday and Tuesday and Tuesday might work for me.  I haven't been able to get outside in quite a while because of health issues in the rest of my family, but would be up for some easy multipitch routes...

rgold wrote:

Making there this coming weekend is questionable for me.  Maybe Sunday for a brief time.

Al says he'll be around Monday and Tuesday and Tuesday might work for me.  I haven't been able to get outside in quite a while because of health issues in the rest of my family, but would be up for some easy multipitch routes...

Rich, sent you emails both through MP and an address I have for you. Did you receive them? Contact me through MP personal messages.

rgold wrote:

Making there this coming weekend is questionable for me.  Maybe Sunday for a brief time.

Al says he'll be around Monday and Tuesday and Tuesday might work for me.  I haven't been able to get outside in quite a while because of health issues in the rest of my family, but would be up for some easy multipitch routes...

Avoiding the weekend but there is a reasonable chance I could get up there for Tuesday and or Wed , esp if there is a plan and a chance to climb with some other 60+ers. 

for Gunks, just FYI, West Trapps lot was full by 905 AM this past Sunday but the popular Trapps routes were not too crowded. seems most visitors are leaf peepers, hikers and birders

Finally sent my latest new route out in the woods, “Power Trip” 5.13a or b.  My brother and I were the only ones at the cliff, and he got a high point on his project so it was all smiles and great foliage.  Now on to training for the boulder project in Arizona in November!

Ward Smith wrote:

Finally sent my latest new route out in the woods, “Power Trip” 5.13a or b.  My brother and I were the only ones at the cliff, and he got a high point on his project so it was all smiles and great foliage.  Now on to training for the boulder project in Arizona.  

Great job Ward!!!! Presuming this is up at your quartzite crag?

Alan Rubin wrote:

Great job Ward!!!! Presuming this is up at your quartzite crag?

Yes, it was a frustrating yet great experience making the one hour uphill grind.  I have been climbing for almost 50 years, but this is the third new route at the crag that I only sent after finally figuring out better beta after failing on the redpoint many times. The bottom line for me is that I never have the perfect beta and still have a lot to learn.

Ward Smith wrote:

Finally sent my latest new route out in the woods, “Power Trip” 5.13a or b.  My brother and I were the only ones at the cliff, and he got a high point on his project so it was all smiles and great foliage.  Now on to training for the boulder project in Arizona in November!

SIIIIIIIIICK!!!!

You are inspirational Ward!

Nice Ward!!!  Did you get a video of your climb? 

I just rediscovered this video of Jeremy Schoenborn and a Scottish friend on Cutting Edge, along with Todd Gordon.  One of my favorite videos to watch.   

After reading the previous posts, I feel very humbled, but encouraging that the young climbers here are sending 5.13b!

Top rope climbed two of the hand and off width hand cracks at my gym. Both are likely only 5.11b gym grading. Maybe harder than an actual 5.10b? At least 10-15 sustained moves of what felt like 5.10b ish Joshua Tree cruxes with much pain, crying, whimpering, screaming… too out of breath to show happiness after the sends.   

6 more to go. One off width fist crack and 4 more off width finger cracks to go. Training to be able to red point the thin hand crack.

Congrats, Ward!  That must be so gratifying.  Unlocking key beta, that turns into a send, especially on a FA - there's nothing like it.

...

Li Hu wrote:

After reading the previous posts, I feel very humbled, but encouraging that the young climbers here are sending 5.13b!

Not sure if you're referring to Lori's friend Jeremy, but I'd say more importantly, the not-so-young climbers here are sending hard stuff too!

Top rope climbed two of the hand and off width hand cracks at my gym.

One off width fist crack and 4 more off width finger cracks to go. Training to be able to red point the thin hand crack.

The term "off width" refers to the size that's bigger than fists, but smaller than a squeeze chimney.  So you can't have "off width fingers".  If you mean something that that's substantially wider than "X" (fingers, hands, fists) you would normally say "off X".  But if it's only a little bigger than the size, you would just say something like "big fingers", "cupped hands" or "rattly fists".

Cheers,

GO

GabeO wrote:

 

But if it's only a little bigger than the size, you would just say something like "big fingers", "cupped hands" or ....

Another common term for this size range is "inch-and-a-quarter" cracks.