Modified Rock Prodigy Program?

I got the Andersons' "Rock Climber's Training Manual."  I see what you all are talking about.  This book is amazing!

I want to do the novice "Seasonal Training Plan," (on page 186 for those who have the book), but it calls for climbing/training 4x per week, which I know my body can't handle.  Too many injuries already - fingers, elbows, shoulders...but I'm getting better at managing them.

I think I can do 2x a week, maybe three if some or all of the sessions are really light.

Anyone have suggestions on how to modify a program like this for a more injury prone climber, or to scale it to 2x per week?  Would you still keep the phases the same length and just do it 2x per week, maybe?

Thanks in advance!

Not modifying the program per se but I’d recommend reading the book “one move too many” and incorporating the recommendations into your warmup and cooldown. 

4x week should be fine if you’re not going crazy at the crag on the weekend. I’d recommend adding two weeks of ramping intensity prior. This should be built into a beginner plan but often we get carried away and go hard right out the gate wanting to see results yesterday. Use this ramp up to build general capacity, not looking for gains. Do everything you see in this plan but at half intensity. Get your body used to doing this much “stuff” in a week to dial in the recovery, calories, sleep. Then when the real fun starts, you’re only changing the intensity and your body will be ready.

This is also a good time to get some basic weightlifting and preventative PT in; often we add this in when we're already doing too much with injury immanent. Think of it as bulletproofing so the training makes you stronger and does not snap you in half. Listen to your body and adapt the plan if needed. Better to take a day off than be set back a month. Blah blah blah. 

Don’t have the book but I’m familiar with the old article. During the arc phase I would try to climb as much as possible— it should always feel below your limit. Maybe do 3 days plus 1 day for rehab/prehab/cross training. For HYP doing 2 days hangboarding and 2 on auxiliary is probably ok. I can’t do campus board more than once per week so I do 1 campus+1 limit bouldering + a few auxiliary days during that phase, but make that phase a couple weeks longer.  I’ve seen some gains but who knows if it would better with a slightly different plan 

For me, the consistency of getting to the gym several times per week is crucial, even if I’m not actually climbing 

Welcome to the club, young grasshopper.

Without knowing your background, it's hard to give the answer that will work best for you.  The Number 1 problem with the RPTM is that the readers don't understand the program as a scaffolding to build on and around.  The Number 2 problem is that they don't follow the concepts and then say it doesn't work.

I'd look at the "Outdoor Mileage" days as optional, especially depending on where you live.  If you are truly a novice, then skills acquisition work will be important.  In that regard, low intensity with much time on the wall will be helpful.  The point of this phase is building capacity.  Depending on your training history, it's possible you may already have enough capacity for your goals.

For most of my training, I am usually only training 2x a week and then getting outside on Saturdays.  Saturday's total time on the wall is usually only 30-60 minutes.  (Total time AT the wall is longer than I care to admit.)

It's better to start slow and ramp up.  Maybe week 1 is just 2 workouts, and each is only a 2x20min ARC session.  You'll probably find skin is the limiting factor at this phase.  Work up from there.

Climb On wrote:

Not modifying the program per se but I’d recommend reading the book “one move too many” and incorporating the recommendations into your warmup and cooldown. 

Hey Climb On, thanks for the comment.  Good idea.  I know Schoffl is the man.  I have that book, but I just realized I have the first edition (2004?) and there are two more newer versions!  Need to pick that up for sure and see what he says.

I got Dave MacLeod's "Make or Break" injury book a few months ago, and really like that one.

Charlie S wrote:

Welcome to the club, young grasshopper.

Without knowing your background, it's hard to give the answer that will work best for you.  The Number 1 problem with the RPTM is that the readers don't understand the program as a scaffolding to build on and around.  The Number 2 problem is that they don't follow the concepts and then say it doesn't work.

I'd look at the "Outdoor Mileage" days as optional, especially depending on where you live.  If you are truly a novice, then skills acquisition work will be important.  In that regard, low intensity with much time on the wall will be helpful.  The point of this phase is building capacity.  Depending on your training history, it's possible you may already have enough capacity for your goals.

For most of my training, I am usually only training 2x a week and then getting outside on Saturdays.  Saturday's total time on the wall is usually only 30-60 minutes.  (Total time AT the wall is longer than I care to admit.)

It's better to start slow and ramp up.  Maybe week 1 is just 2 workouts, and each is only a 2x20min ARC session.  You'll probably find skin is the limiting factor at this phase.  Work up from there.

@Adam Bloc, Jaredg, and Charlie S - You all made me realize I am climbing too hard too much.  Not that I'm climbing that hard, but too hard for my body.  It's too fun and I love pushing it.  Been doing that since I actually was a young grasshopper :)  

I am thinking I'll try climbing light enough to increase the frequency up to 3-4x per week.  Thank you all!

Charlie S wrote:

Welcome to the club, young grasshopper.

Without knowing your background, it's hard to give the answer that will work best for you.  The Number 1 problem with the RPTM is that the readers don't understand the program as a scaffolding to build on and around.  The Number 2 problem is that they don't follow the concepts and then say it doesn't work.

I'd look at the "Outdoor Mileage" days as optional, especially depending on where you live.  If you are truly a novice, then skills acquisition work will be important.  In that regard, low intensity with much time on the wall will be helpful.  The point of this phase is building capacity.  Depending on your training history, it's possible you may already have enough capacity for your goals.

For most of my training, I am usually only training 2x a week and then getting outside on Saturdays.  Saturday's total time on the wall is usually only 30-60 minutes.  (Total time AT the wall is longer than I care to admit.)

It's better to start slow and ramp up.  Maybe week 1 is just 2 workouts, and each is only a 2x20min ARC session.  You'll probably find skin is the limiting factor at this phase.  Work up from there.

Charlie S, had to send you one more reply just to you, partially because your grasshopper comment cracked me up.

First, yeah, that book is the stuff.  At least it seems like it.  Looking forward to actually doing it.  As I mentioned above, your comment and a few of the others made me realize I should try a balance of the frequency and intensity my body can handle and work up slowly.

Second, a little on my background.  I'm 45, have been climbing for 20 years, but started getting injuries 3 years into those 20, and so I've never gotten that good.  I lead 5.10, can TR 5.11, etc.  But I LOVE climbing.  Especially outside, although plastic is fun too.

Thanks for the comment!

Mike J the Second wrote:

I am thinking I'll try climbing light enough to increase the frequency up to 3-4x per week.  Thank you all!

I hope your willpower is better than mine. I’ll often go into a gym session with that mindset and inevitably they’ve set new stuff at my limit. Gets me every single  time. 

Climb On wrote:

I hope your willpower is better than mine. I’ll often go into a gym session with that mindset and inevitably they’ve set new stuff at my limit. Gets me every single  time. 

Gyms don’t want you to get better, they want you to come back for your next helping of dopamine. 

Mike J the Second wrote:

Second, a little on my background.  I'm 45, have been climbing for 20 years, but started getting injuries 3 years into those 20, and so I've never gotten that good.  I lead 5.10, can TR 5.11, etc.  But I LOVE climbing.  Especially outside, although plastic is fun too.

For your first RPTM cycle, I'd recommend 2x ARC sessions per week with a length that suits your needs.

At the 5.10-5.11 level, you are going to see most of your improvements come from the hangboarding phase.  Definitely start light!  Don't go too heavy.  I'd also recommend going straight to the 7/3 protocol and skipping the 10/5.  (I actually do 7/5 but ultimately, I don't think the rest period matters +/- a few seconds.)

As an aside, there's a lot of debate over which hangboarding protocol is the "best."  It really depends on your goal routes.  I have found repeaters to be beneficial for my needs, but also for injury prevention.  As they say, though, your mileage may vary.

Climb On wrote:

I hope your willpower is better than mine. I’ll often go into a gym session with that mindset and inevitably they’ve set new stuff at my limit. Gets me every single  time. 

Good point!  I'm going to have to work hard on not giving in - I have exactly the same problem.

Charlie S wrote:

For your first RPTM cycle, I'd recommend 2x ARC sessions per week with a length that suits your needs.

At the 5.10-5.11 level, you are going to see most of your improvements come from the hangboarding phase.  Definitely start light!  Don't go too heavy.  I'd also recommend going straight to the 7/3 protocol and skipping the 10/5.  (I actually do 7/5 but ultimately, I don't think the rest period matters +/- a few seconds.)

As an aside, there's a lot of debate over which hangboarding protocol is the "best."  It really depends on your goal routes.  I have found repeaters to be beneficial for my needs, but also for injury prevention.  As they say, though, your mileage may vary.

Nice, thanks again.  I’m just starting to hear and learn a bit about hangboarding for injury prevention.  That would be my goal for sure.  Would be grateful to hear about your experience using it for that when you have a minute to share a thought or two.